llamasbailando

Welcome to Argentina

2010-07-04T02:29:00.000-07:00

Ahhh...welcome to Argentina. A huge and incredibly beautiful country, with such diversity in its beauty; from the snow-covered "Fin Del Mundo" (End of The World!!!"; the beautiful mountains and lakes of Bariloche; the coast with its whales and penguins; the specatcle of Iguazu falls; Salta and the north with its rainbow-coloured mountains, and the blending of Argentinian and Andean cultures.

Plus, the people...we loved them!!! They were so open and friendly and warm and welcoming, and just loved to chat...interested where we were from, our travels etc. We would be sitting in restaurants and end up chatting to the people at the next table!! One time i was waiting in the street while Jesus went to look for a hostel. An older gentleman walked towards me, we smiled at each other and exchanged "hola's" (also common over there walking down the street). He ended up stopping and asked where i was from...we ended up just chatting for about 5 minutes. This wouldnt happen everywhere...let alone even smile or say hola to a stranger in the streets!!!

Our first stop was Puerto Iguazu...a small town right on the borders of Brazil and Paraguay...nice and warm and welcoming and tourist freindly. We found a cute little self-contained cabin...surrounded by trees and birds singing for $10 a night!!! So...we stayed for a week!!!

We had a tv, a stove so we could cook our own yummy home-cooked meals, enjoyed a traditional Argentinian parillada (BBQ) with another couple we met there...and the incredible Iguazu Falls waiting for us. Iguazu Falls...wow, wow and wow!!! Did i say Wow!!!

These amazing waterfalls are on the Iguazu river which borders Brazil and Argentina. It is a whole series of waterfalls down the river canyon walls...starting with the spectacular "Devil's Throat" waterfall, which is a huge impressive semi-circular waterfall in the middle of the river, dropping down about 30m to the river below. The water falls with such force that you could see the "cloud" of spray from way in the distance...and up closer at the look-out you even got wet. Some smart people had rain coats...us, well we just got wet!!!

Actually, it was quite nice, as the weather was warm!! We had the most amazing weather..sunny, blue skies, to see the falls in all their glory. You can visit the falls from both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides of the river. On the Argentinian side we spent 2 days. On the first morning we even saw 2 toucans in the trees. Ahhh....nature in all its glory!! Plus there are these animals called Coatis...like the size of a small dog with big long fluffy tails..just roaming everywhere.

On the Argentinian side you get right up close to the falls...it is amazing how they have built a series of walkways literally over the river and along the ridges, so you can walk over the top of some of the smaller falls, watching the river rush over the edge from under your feet; plus you get right up close to some of the bigger falls. Some of the walkways are at the top of the ridge and others at the bottom, so you also see the waterfalls from different perspectives. It is an incredibly beautiful experience to see nature in all its beauty and all its power.

On the second day we went for a small walk in the surrounding national park to a waterfall where you could bathe in the pool at its base. Walking we were on the lookout for anteaters and jaguars, as they live in this area. (Apparently a rangers son was killed by a jaguar in 1997!!).We did see an anteater, but no jaguars!!! (maybe just as well!!!!).

In the afternoon we did a boat trip that actually takes you under the main area of the waterfall...12 minutes of pure adrenelin!!! The boat literally goes in to the 2 sides of the falls, in the rapids/waves caused by the pressure of the water falling...and under the spray. The spray was so powerfull that we almost couldnt breathe under its pressure.!! We were the only ones not to take raincoats for at least some protection...so we got saturated...completely!! But..we had fun!!!

The next day we visited the falls from the Brazilian side, where you see then from the other side of the river. There is a main walkway that follows the river valley, giving a complete overview of the falls that you walk over the top of in Argentina. Here are photos of the falls from the Brazilian side:

The following photos are of the other beauties of nature that we encountered at Igauzu Falls...butterflies, birds, lizards,plants and these grubs up the trunk of a tree (pretty...but yucky!!!!)

And...just a few more of our Iguazu snap-shots!!!

Iguazu Falls...all-in-all an amazingly spectacular experience!!! So..what else did we do in our week there!!

We visited a place called "The Three Frontiers"...a point at the junction of the River Iguazu and the River Paraguay where the three countries Argentina, Brazil and Paraugual meet. On each of the 3 corners there is a marker with the countries flag. From there we watched a beautiful sunset.

We also very briefly visited Paraguay!! There is a town just over the border from Brazil which is a black-market for buying electronic goods (and anything else they can sell without paying taxes!!). We were there on a sunday, when many places are closed, and got hassled to buy stuff. Apparently during the week it is quite an experience to go there, with literally thousands of people filling the streets and shops to buy their household goods cheaper. It is a fairly seedy area, with fairly seedy looking characters trying to con you in to buying stuff...so probably even more scary with so many people. We wanted to get our passports stamped with a paraguayan stamp..but unfortunately we didnt. As this is a "friendly border", people literally just come across from Brazil to shop and return across the border, so there are no formal border crossings. Oh well...Jesus did drink a beer to get a Paraguayan label to add to his collection!! Oh yeh...and as happened a few times in our travels, Jesus got asked if he wanted to buy some "maria!!!"..it was that or if he had "anything" to sell!!! Hmmm...must be the long hair!!!

The other days we just relaxed, enjoyed the cute little town and our cute little cabin and a bottlw or two of Argentian wine!! We did visit "The House of Bottles".

This was built by a man who couldn't afford to buy his daughter a "play-house"...so invented a manner to construct one using plastic bottles. Even the chairs and bed were made from bottles!!! He cut the bottles in half, and put the top end upside down inside the bottom end to make the "bricks". These then fit in to each other to construct the walls. He discovered that the air inside the bottles actually also created a natural insulator, and is now even constructing his own house using the same technique.

Over time he even extended this to other uses for bottles and other recycled materials. Steps made from bottles filled with sand; cutting bottles in to long plastic strips, and weaving them together to make curtains and even plastic carry baskets; crotcheting aluminium can tops together to make hand-bags; toys for kids, ie: a car, with the bottle as the body and the bottle-tops as the wheels; a solar panel made with the plastic bottles painted black to absorb the heat.

This man now travels around teaching his technique...with the idea to help people know how they can re-cycle, or use recycled materials if they cant afford anything else; or as he has done, using re-cycled materials to make things and sell them to make money.

We also visited ...can't remember its name...but its a "building" made out of really old, recycled trees...it's massive.

So...where to next. We actually had no plans...no real idea!!! We originally thought to just travel across the Northern part of Argentina and the Northern part of Chile and back up towards Ecuador. But, one morning over breaky, studying the map of Argentina...a town in the mountains of Argentina called "Bariloche" was calling our attention!! I asked in the travel agency "How far is it to Bariloche"?. Well...18 hours to Buenos Aires and another 20 to Bariloche...ok lets go!!!

I must add, the buses in Argentina were the best. Comfy, lots of leg room, on some they even gave you a pillow and a blanket!!! Plus, food and drink, like on an aeroplane. Pure luxury after some of our bus trips!!! So, an overnight bus to BA, then killed a few hours, stretched our legs on a windy freezing day there, and jumped on the next bus to Bariloche. Another sleep on a bus, we woke to a beautiful day...and then amazing snow-cappped mountains came in to view and turquiose-coloured rivers. Ahhhh...the mountains again. These views continued until Bariloche came in to view.

Bariloche is part of Patagonia, located in the Lakes District of Argentina. It is a "Swiss-like" town both in feel and location. It is set on an impressively beautiful lake and is surrounded by mountians, all still covered with snow.. The surrounding countryside is covered in Pine Trees, hence lots of wooden chalet-like buildings. Plus, it is famous for its home-made chocolates...YUM!!! Lots of amazing, yummy chocolate shops everywhere. We arrived to blue skies, and the lake and mountains glistening in the sunlight. Found a cute little home-stay in the heart of "down-town", opposite the lake...perfect!!! Unfortunately the next day we awoke to grey skies and rain forecast. But, after a yummy coffe in one of the many coffee shops in town...we headed off to "Cerro Compana"...a small mountain look-out about 17km from town. When we stepped off the bus, Jesus bumped in to a Swiss girl, Marcella, who he knew when she lived in Banos (Ecuador) for few years!!! What a small world!!! The last time they "bumped" in to each other was at the train station in Zurich when Jesus was on his way to visit his brother in Germany!!! Anyway, at the same time the heavens opened...so the 3 of us jumped on the next bus in to town...and what better way to spend a wintery afternoon...in a cafe enjoying a yummy warming hot chocolate!!. We stayed there chatting until they nearly kicked us out!!! Back to our little house, and a yummy home-cooked pasta for dinner. Next day, a bit the same story.

"Take 2" to visit "Cerro Campana"...but again the heavens opened. It rained on and off, so we didnt go up, but walked along the main road, enjoying the lake views and a few little shops along the way.Until it really started raining..so back to town, and yep...another hot chocolate. Another yummy home-cooked meal, and Jesus even got to watch Ecuador's World-Cup qualifying match on tv!!!

Day 3, and "take 3". Yippee...we finally got to go up "Cerro Campana". There was a chair lift to the top, but we decided to walk and enjoy the pine forest and patches of snow.

From the top, amazing 360 degree views over the lakes and mountains awaited us.

We ventured further along the picturesque road to where there is a huge Swiss-like hotel surrounded by lake and mountain views. But...as backpackers...we just got to enjoy this from the outside!!!

But after a invigorating day, back in town...yep, another hot chocky!!! The next morning we awoke to a beautiful clear morning. But, the seed had already been planted in our heads to go even further south. To the Southern-most town in the world, at the Southern-most point in Argentina...Ushuaia. Our bus didn't leave until later in the day, so we got to enjoy the clear weather until then. We took a different chair-lift up a higher mountain covered in snow, with people skiing and tobogganing...and enjoyed even more incredible views.

But, after a bit of snow-play and checking out the sights in the museum up there, time to head back down the mountain and Southward bound to "The End of the World".

All-in all, a 36 hour journey!!! But, oh well...we were becoming seasoned bus-travellers...and got to pass through some other cute little towns.

So...Ushuahia here we come...but i save those adventures for our next blog!!! Until then, hope you have enjoyed Argentina so far!!!

Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo

Brazil

2010-02-12T23:31:00.001-08:00

Brazil...la la la la la la la la la!!! (if you know the "Inka Marka" song "Brazil"!!).Well...we made it to this exotic and huge country. Very different to the Andean countries we had been travelling through...in many ways. Firstly, hot!!! We were back in shorts and t-shirts instead of sexy thermals!!! Secondly, expensive.We did enjoy our time here, but found it a difficult place to travel. To start with, the language...they speak Portuguese, which is a bit similar to Spanish, but at times hard to understand. We also found the people not as friendly and helpful as where we had been travelling so far. Plus...it was REALLY difficult to find out any tourist information!!! Great for the tourists!!! Unlike in the other countries where they are basically begging for your business...here there was lots to do, but impossible to find out how. I kind of realised that they were perhaps more interested in the big-bucks pre-organised tour type tourism...not us, the back-packers!!!

Our first stop was in Corumba...the town nearest to the Bolivian border. Not much to do here except relax, recover from the bus trip and plan where to go to next. Our hostel did have a swimming pool (what luxury hey!!!)...so not a bad place to stop!!!

Anyway, this area of Brazil is particularly well known for The Pantanel..a huge wet-lands where it is great for bird watching and animal spotting (and getting bitten by mozzies!!). It was possible to go there without going on an organised tour, but...HOW?! There was no "tourist information" in the town...only 2 tour agencies wanting to sell their expensive tours. We asked and asked to no avail, and in the end decided to go to another little town instead. I was more keen to go to the Pantanel than Jesus...as he gets eaten alive by mozzies!!! In the end, after we had bought our bus ticket, the girl that was working in the hostel that day told us that the bus we were going on actually went past the entrance to the Pantanel reserve!!! Welcome to Brazil!!! Oh well!!!

So...off we went to Bonito...which actually means "beautiful". This is a cute little town surrounded by lots of "beautiful" things to do. The only thing was that all the "tourist attractions" were on private land, so you had to go on a pre-paid organised tour to go anywhere. We are not the greatest fans of organised tour i might add!!!

The only thing that was for the general public was the Municipal baths. But, not your normal swimming-pool type baths. This was a beautiful area on the banks of the river. The "baths" were actually the river itself...crystal clear water filled with large colourful fish!!! The most beautiful municipal baths i have ever been to. There was one rock-pool type area that was shallower, and another deeper area where you could walk a bit further up the river and then slowly float down with the current. We spent the day there just enjoying the water, the relaxing surroundings and watching the local Brazilians practicing their Capueiyra (a traditional dance of the Brazilian slaves).

You could buy food to give to the fish...and watch them in their feeding frenzy!!! Jesus even threw some food in when i was in the water, and the fish were all swarming around me...it was a bit freaky!!!

There was also cute little monkeys playing in the bushland lining the river. We had decided to walk the 7km from the hostel to the baths, even though the girl at the hostel had said it was "very far"!!! On the way back, walking out of the area, we saw 2 toucans in the trees...their yellow beaks glistening in the sunlight!!! Ahhh...how wonderful is nature!!!

The next day instead of doing an organised tour, we decided to hire bikes and enjoy the surrounding countryside...which was really fun. We actually ended up at one of the "tourist attractions"...a cave where there was a beautiful blue lagoon inside. But, even though there was an office there and tour groups going in to the cave, they wouldnt let us join a tour and go in to the cave because we hadnt "pre-paid" and organised to do so...how stupid hey!!! But, anyway...we enjoyed our bike ride (apart from nearly getting "run over" by a herd of cows!!!...and 40km later arrived back in Bonito, a bit tired!!!

The following day i did one of the organised tours. In the morning they took us to this area to see the incredibly beautiful Mackaws. It was amazing...this big canyon like hole in the ground, about 150m in depth, where the Mackaws nested in the rock-faces, and you could watch them flying over the canyon or sitting on the ledges or tree branches around the red-coloured rock faces of the canyon. They are the most amazingly vibrant blue and red colour with their beautiful long tail feathers...it was so special to see them in the wild.

We got to see some other cute and colourful birds as well...

The next part of the day was a snorkling adventure in the river. It was basically 3 hours where we just floated down the river..the water was so crystal clear that yu got to see all the beautiful fish and different plants in the river. There was fish of all sizes...tiny little colourful ones, to some quite big ones. It was amazing...it was like another world down there. We wore wet-suits, which made us float on top of the water...so you didn't need to do anything...the current of the river just slowly floated you down-stream. It was a great experience.

Our last morning there, i woke early and decided to go for a bit of a walk. About 5 minutes from the hostel, i saw this yellow glistening in a tree in the distance...yep, a toucan. I was so excited, and watched a while hoping it would come a bit closer, but eventually decided to keep walking a bit further where there was more trees. I looked up and WOW...there was 5 Toucans playing in the trees just above my head. How special and amazing to see these incredibly beautiful birds in the wild. Such amazing colour. I imagined them to be bigger than they actually were..but their beautiful yellow beaks are nearly as big as they are!!! I ran back to the hostel (non-stop!!!) to get Jesus to come and enjoy this wonder of nature with me. So, that was Bonito...beautiful!!!

We enquired about other places to visit in this area...but discovered that apart from Bonito and the Pantanel, there was really nothing to do between here and Rio de Janero ...22 hours away in bus!!! So...our first really long bus trip!!! (the first of many!!!). But, this was absolute luxury compared to the buses in Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia...where 7 hours seemed like an eternity!!! These buses are air-conditioned (and not by just opening the window!!!), have heaps of leg room, a leg rest, the seats are huge and even recline to about a 45 degree angle..so you can sleep a bit more comfortably.

Well...next stop 22 hours later, the famous Rio de Janero. Can't come to Brazil without visiting Rio!!! Plus, one of the friends we made during our trekking in Peru, Fabio, was from Rio. But, difficult as everything else was in Brazil...so was catching up with our friend!!! He was away working in Sao Paolo, 7 hours away, and told us he would be back on the weekend, so we hung around to see him...and he got stuck there for work. So... we didn't even catch up with him unfortunately!!! But...we did stay in the famous Copacabana...and enjoyed strolling along the beach-front and sipping Caiparinas in the beach-front cafes. Caiparina is a yummy Brazilian drink that you have to drink when in Brazil...so we did!!!

We ended up doing a really touristy "city tour" to see the sights of Rio...easier than trying to get around on your own. So, we visited the famous Statue of Christ that overlooks Rio, the road where they have the famous Carnivale Parade, for soccer fans of course...the Macarana Stadium and Sugar Loaf Mountain, with its spectacular views over Rio and the beautiful beaches.

The top of Sugar Loaf Mountain had lots of paths to walk around and enjoy the views. The surrounding trees had all these cute faced little monkeys!! We spent quite a bit of time there, enjoying the many varied views...and the monkeys of course. Later we went to one of the lovely beaches at the base of the mountain to enjoy the sun beginning to set.

Well...when you think of Brazil, what do you think of? Beautiful beaches...and beautiful they were. We were staying at Copacabana...so enjoyed walking along this famous beach front with its famous tiled footpaths, with "artisanos" selling their jewellery, crafts and colourful beach wraps and the most amazing sand sculptures.

The next day we walked from Copacabana to Ipanema (as you do!!!)...the next beach along. A nice walk enjoying the sunny day, watching people play volley-ball all along the beach front...and of course the "infamous" Brazilian beach views...yep, the Brazilians really love their g-string bikinis...no matter what the size or shape!!! I hope i dont offend anyone...but i thought i would share some of these beach "views" with you all!!!

But...there was also the usual "all shapes and sizes" beach views!!

I did also take some cuter views!!!

Plus, we stayed to watch the sunset over Ipanema beach, which was really relaxing and beautiful.

From Rio, we decided to head to a town in the mountains, Teresopolis, about 60km away, on the edge of a National Park considered to be the hiking capital of Brazil. We had imagined a smallish town...kind of like Olinda or somewhere like that. But...small town Brazilian style...about 150,000 people...with houses sprawling up the mountain sides!!!

From the bus station we decided to jump in a taxi and head for the Youth Hostel but arrived there to find it closed...apparently the owner had gone to lunch!!! But, waiting out the front we met a fellow traveller, Mark...also looking for somewhere to stay. So...he jumped in to our taxi, and we all headed down-town and found somewhere else to stay. A nice, clean place...expensive...but that was normal for Brazil. There was a really yummy breaky spread included though!!! Mark had also come here interested in hiking...so off the 3 of us set in search of hiking tour information. Hmmm...!!! The tourist information office basically only had information on places to eat or sleep!!! There was no tour agencies...so we headed to the National Park itself to enquire about hiking. They told us we would have to check out their website to get the name of a local guide...and phone him ourselves!! Yep, great...thanks for the help!!! But...a long story later, we did manage to get in contact with a guide, Rennan; a young and really enthusiastic guy. There was actually nothing organised for people like us wanting to go hiking...we basically had to organise it ourselves. Plus...nowhere to rent equipment, such as tents etc!!! Hmmm..and this is supposed to be the trekking mekka of Brazil!!! But...Rennan could help us organise everything..so "lets just do it" we all decided. Rennan took us to his house in his little Volkswagon Beetle for an "organising meeting". He was actually really helpful, and could help us out with a tent and all the things we needed. Plus, as he was used to organising food for treks...so we let him do all that for us as well!!! He even suggested that if we wanted to we could also hire a porter to help us carry all the stuff...as the hike was quite difficult in places and involved clambering up and down rock faces. So...we took him up on that suggestion to "supposedly" even the load out. We wanted to leave the next day...but, like everything else, that also proved impossible to get everything organised in time!!!
As we couldn't leave the next day, he took us on an outing to a different area in the National Park where we walked to a really peaceful and beautiful little waterfall and swimming area, with lots of beautiful, colourful flowers and then to a look-out over the town. Plus...views over the imposing mountain formation which made the background to Teresopolis called "El Dedo de Dios" ("God's Finger")

So...after 3 days we finally headed off on our 3-day trek...yipeeee!!! The night before we left he told us that he had organised for his girlfriend Paula to come along, as she spoke English (he only spoke Portuguese). When we arrived at the hike starting point...there was Rennan and Paula waiting for us. We were wondering where was the porter...well, she was it too!!! They started taking the food, utensils, tent etc out of their packs to organise everything "fairly". Jesus and i had packed really lightly to compensate for having to share the load of all this stuff. Rennan "weighed" the bags of food etc, and we all got ready to load up our packs. He started putting everything back in his pack. We just looked and laughed..."what is going on...when are we going to share out the stuff"? It turns out that he and Paula were also playing "porters"...so it was their "job" to carry a certain weight. As it turned out, we eneded up carrying nothing extra...he even actually offered to take more of our stuff!!! There was 2 huge avocados sitting on the table near-by, which Jesus offered to Rennan if he wanted to carry more weight!!! We were just wetting ourselves laughing...even the lady at the Park office was having a good laugh. Our packs weighed about 10kg...his, about 30kg, and i think Paula's almost as much!!! At least we were in for a funny time!!!

So...ready, and off we set. The first day was a nice and fairly easy hike, with views over the surrounding mountain range and even back to Rio de Janero.

After 4 hours we arrived at a look-out point...where there was also this big rock formation perched on the hill-top called "El Pescado" (The Fish). "Can we stop here for a little while to exlore a bit" asked Jesus. "This is where we are camping" was the answer!!! So, we got to explore the rock crevices and caves and views while Rennan and Paula prepared our yummy dinner. We did help set up the camp though!!! It was actually a cold night...so, what to do when camping...go to bed!!! It was earlyish...and as the 3 of us lay in the tent, Mark said "I'm bored"!!! So...Jesus started telling ghost stories!!!

The next morning we woke to cloudy skies and a bit of rain. Hmmm. We packed up the camp, but had to wait to see if the weather cleared up , as Rennan said the days hiking was dangerous if it was raining. So we waited, protected under "the fish", and waited...until eventually at about 11.00 the weather cleared enough for us to continue on. Yippeeee!!!

And we soon discovered why it was dangerous to continue if it was raining. A lot of the ground was actually flat, exposed rock...so really slippery. And parts were on slopes...so we had to be really careful. One part we had to walk across a sheer rock-face that was at a 45 degree angle, just using the grooves in the rock to put our feet, so if we slipped, we would have slipped...down!!!

A couple of other times Rennan had to secure a rope so we could "rock climb" down the rock-face, as it was too steep and too slippery otherwise. One other time it was actually climbing down a 90 degree angle drop, using the rope as security. The last "adventure" was climbing up and over another 90 degree angle rock-face...this time even using a harness. So, yep..you can add rock-climbing to our list of newly aquired skills!!! Just as well Rennan was an experienced rock-climber!!!

But...it was a beautiful days hiking with lots more amazing views, even though it was very cloudy...and also lots of colourful wildflowers.

That night we camped at a refuge...although we still slept in our little tent. The next morning was also cloudy and drizzly...so we enjoyed the "comfort" of being inside the little house to keep warm and dry, waiting for the day to clear. Which it didnt!!! But, this was an easy 3-4 hours hiking back down through the bush-land. A bit wet, but invigorated, we arrived back in Teresopolis!!! After our hiking adventure, we decided to stay the next day in Teresopolis to dry out our clothes and boots!!! After this, we actually decided "enough of Brazil". Too difficult for tourists, and actually really really expensive. So, the next day we returned to Rio, and the same afternoon jumped on a bus bound for Puerto Iguazu...just over the border in Argentina...and home to the famous Iguazu Falls. But, that was a 24 hour bus ride away!!! So, until Iguazu...

Lots of love Llamas Bailando xxoo

PS: I leave you with a cute photo from the shop at Suger Loaf Mountain..o good way to drum up business!!!

Cochabamba and Toro Toro

2010-01-07T13:27:00.000-08:00

Next stop---Cochabamba---and who was waiting for us there---our special friend Linda---how exciting!!! She was there visiting the family of Jose (of Inka Marka fame!!!)---and they kindly invited us to stay there as well. After our over-night bus trip, we jumped in a taxi, and when we arrived at their street---there was Linda waiting to meet us, jumping up and down with excitement. It was so exciting to see a friendly face from home---and also lovely to meet Jose´s family.

It was actually his dad´s birthday---and a party was planned---good timing hey!!! So--after breaky which included yummy Vegemite which Linda had brought!!! (and Linda and my "blah blah blah blah blah"---months of not talking to catch up on!!!)---off we went to town to do some party shopping. Food, drink and cake---what else does a party need!!!
The party started mid-afternoon---first lunch, then cake---then the drinking started. Beer and chicha!!! Chicha is a drink made from fermented corn, and it´s pretty potent---they love it over here!!

Then---time for music and dancing. It´s not a Latin American party without dancing!!! Our entertainment was provided by an Andean band in which Jose´s son Dayan plays and sings. A group of extremely talented musicians---and in particular Dayan. A Mariachi band was also organised---so lots of dancing and fun was had by all.

Jesus and I had seen a poster promoting Tora Tora, a cute little town in a National Park about 160km from Cochabamba. As it happened, this next weekend was the "Festival de Tata Santiago" there---a big local Indigenous festival honouring the Saint "Tata Santiago"---with lots of music and dancing and entertainment and Indigenous culture. So--after a bit of a sleep in and a yummy breaky (yep---soup for breaky!!!), the 3 of us headed off excitedly Tora Tora bound!!!

We arrived to where we were told buses were leaving from--to find one bus stationed there. They told us there was no buses leaving, and were selling tickets for this bus for the next day. We were a bit disheartened--but oh well, what could we do---so we bought 3 of the last 4 seats on the bus. We then crossed the road to head back to the house to find 2 mini buses calling out for people heading to Tora Tora. Yep---in true Latin American style they had lied to us to sell seats on their bus!!! But---we went back, told them off and asked for our money back---and surprisingly they gave it to us!!!---a rarity over here!!!

So---off we headed in our mini-van. The trip took 4 1/2 hours to go 160km!!! A pretty rough ride---but apparently this was a "good" road compared to before!!! Hmmm!!! At parts the road was quite narrow---and at one point our driver pulled over to let a truck pass. As the drivers are a bit crazy over here---the truck driver went past too fast and not very carefully, hit the back corner of our van, and took off the back bumper bar!!! So, the rest of the trip Linda and I were sitting in the back seats with a bumper bar---and nearly dieing from dust inhalation!!!

We finally arrived in Tora Tora at 7pm to find all the hostels booked out months ago---oh dear!!! We went to the tourist office to ask for advice---and the young guy just looked at us!!! Luckily a lady overheard us---as in one of the hostels a group of 40 had booked, and only 25 actually arrived. So--luckily for us there was a room with 3 beds---just waiting for us!!! Complete with views over the street below and the mountains in front---with a flat rock-like area with---Dinosuar foot-prints!!!

We went for a bit of a walk around the town---with its cute little Plaza de Armas (central plaza) complete with a dinosaur statue. This National Park was also home to Dinosaurs millions of years ago---and yep, more dinosaur foot-prints---and the plan is to put 21 of these life-sized dinosaur sculptures throughout the park. We enjoyed the town in its "relaxed" state before the festival started!!!

We also found this funny sign nailed to a tree...translated "Prohibited to urinate and defacate"...doesnt stop them though!!!

Not much was happening this night, as the festival actually started the next day---the town was just beginning to come to life with people arriving and setting up. So---after a cup of tea (yes---just tea!!!)--time to go to our little room---we were all pretty tired after the car trip!!!

After a good nights sleep we awoke to activity in the street below---people were arriving and setting up their stalls for the festival---dressed in their colourful traditional clothes. The women with their "best" skirts and shirts and white felt hats decorated with pom-pom type bands or ribbon-like tassles. The men with brightly coloured vests and jackets and the typical patterned and colourful knitted hats. Yep---the photos started!!!

After breaky, we went to see the street markets...selling all the colourful poleras (skirts), vests, jackets, ponchos, scarves, hats, belts...colour, colour, colour!!! The traditional clothes from this region are particularly intricate and colourful. Yep...more photos!!! Plus...not to mention the stalls selling Andean instruments..."try before you buy"...so Linda did!!!

At mid-day the street parade started---from dance groups dressed in their colourful costumes, to the "real makoy"---musicians/dancers from the local villages roaming the streets. Some of these villagers play a type of zampoña (wooden flute) that only have 4 notes each of varying lengths---they play their particular note at the "right" time in the music. This particular group roamed through the streets all weekend--each time returning to their camp to drink chicha!!! Not sure if the serious "trance-like" look on their faces was because they were engrossed in their music---or drunk from too much chicha!!!

There was music and dancing in the streets all weekend---groups walking around playing, or people just wandering around strumming on a charango. Linda and I had a great time being paparazzi---so much colour and Andean culture!!!

That night was concert heaven---on a stage set up next to the plaza, Andean music until time for bed!!! Plus---the other groups still just roaming the streets---music, dancing, colour and culture everywhere!!! We couldn´t stop dancing!!! It was interesting to watch all the locals---they were entranced by the music, but didn´t dance at all---they are actually quite reserved (unlike us!!!). There was some fantastic groups full of energy and vibrance. But---enough was enough when a group of 8 girls dressed in white pants and yellow spangled singlet tops came on and played techno-Andean music---loudly and not very well at that!!! For us---time for bed!!!

The next morning Jesus and I decided to go for a bit of a walk in the National Park---in search of fossils!! We had heard that there was lots of them in this park. You were supposed to pay a park entrance fee and go with a guide--but as noone was there controlling anything---off we went---Jesus as "tour-guide"!!! The surrounding countryside was beautiful---lots of colours and geological formations, and a pretty river canyon with stones of all colours. We didn´t find any fossils---but we did stumble across more dinosaur foot-prints. There was actually quite a lot of them, not in such a great states of preservation as the first ones we saw--but still!!! Who needs a tour guide!!! Jesus seems to have this natural good sense of direction!!!

Plus---just wandering it was lovely to see the locals in their colourful clothes heading towards the festival or back to their villages---really pretty set against the backdrop of the countryside.

Back in town, the town was again full of colour and atmosphere. Today was the festival of the "Taki Tinku"---a traditonal and typical music from this region, the North of Potossi. The performers were dressed in the most amazingly colourful clothes and ranged from groups direct from the little villages, to more accomplished musicians. The first group were the "real deal"---they looked like they had come straight from their local village and had never really played in public. They came on stage, looked like they had stage fright, played, and then almost mid-song stopped and just kind of ran off!!! It was fantastic to see this "real" culture--thats what we came here for.

In the evening we danced our hearts away to some great music. What was lovely was that whilst the groups were playing on stage--others were wandering the streets playing and dancing---including villagers playing their traditional music, and the zampoña group arriving in their varying trance-like states!!!

I invited a young girl to dance with us---she was so cute and kind of befriended us. She said that she was there with her sister, and that they had come because they had heard that they were going to be giving away pencils and note-books. They had been throwing pencils in to the crowd---WOW--the little things that make these kids happy!!! I felt sorry for our little friend---as this was the only reason she had come and was waiting--it was quite late by this stage. So---I took her to the little shop opposite our hostel and stocked her and her sister up with a notebook, a lead pencil, a red pencil, a sharpener and a rubber each---for $4!!! Off she went to her house--very happy!!!

At the end of the evening they presented all the Taki Tinku performers with gifts---shovels and picks and rice and cola for their communities.

Jesus was "inspired" to come to this park because of the fossils---so the next morning we

decided to hire a guide to take us to an area called "7 Vueltas---7 Turns" where there was lots of them. So, we left Linda to her own devices in town---in charge of paparazying and chatting up the locals (sorry Linda---had to say that---hee hee!!!)---and off we went.

It wasn´t a long or too difficult hike---following a river and climbing up the mountain a bit---but it was, again, a beautiful hike. We arrived at this area where there was a band of rock in the mountain---full of fossils!!! WOW---Jesus was in 7th heaven!!! We spent about 45 minutes just searching for fossils, but it wasn´t hard as they were everywhere!!!! From whole sea-shells to rocks filled with fossils---big ones, small ones--lots of ones!!!

It was prohibited to take any---but we could collect some to take a photo. I knew that Jesus would try to sneak at last one---and i discovered that i could also sneak a couple down my top!!! Jesus was walking in front of me, and he had one that he liked in his hand---when the guide was´t looking, but i was, he shoved it down his pants!!! Naughty us!!!

When we arrived back in town, Jesus went to the office to pay--and i ran off to the hostel---worried that they might decide to "check" our pockets!!! Back in our room with the 3 of us---Jesus and i started emptying our clothes. Jesus had even shoved one down his shoe which had started to rub his heel--ouch!!! One larger shell that i had nicked---Jesus said "How did you get that?!" He had left it sitting on a rock wanting to take it, but the guide was with him---but when i saw it sitting there i shoved it down my jeans!!!

But---naughtiness aside---we had a fun time. We passed several villagers walking to Tora Tora or back to their villages dressed in their colourful clothes---so pretty set against the countryside. On the way back we heard some music in the hills behind us---there was a villager walking down to the town strumming on his charango---how beautiful!!!

I just had to add this photo!!! As we were arriving back in town we met this local---who didn´t quite make it to where he was going!!! Too much partying!!!

This was also the day of the Tinku Fighting---a tradition where the men fight (full on fighting)--punching and wrestling--until they are hurt or bleeding. It is said that they fight until blood is spilt for the Pacha Mama (Mother Earth)---and whoever wins brings good luck to his community for the year.

But---seriously---I think they have to be drunk on chicha to partake in such an event!!! They "offer" to fight each other!!! It took place in the middle of the street---with the crowd gathered around the couple fighting. At one stage Linda and I were watching and the whole crowd group just moved in a wave down the street following the fighters. It was a bit scary--almost like crowd crush---dangerous, as if you fell over you would just get trampled. Entertainment Sth American style!!!

But, unfortunately our weekend of Andean culture had come to an end---time to head back to Cochabamba. However, for the locals---it is said that the party continues until the money, or the chicha, runs out!!!We spent a couple more days in Cochabamba with Linda and Jose´s family---who kindly treated us to the delicacies of "Cochabambian Cuisine"---YUM!!! Cochabamba is said to be the culinary capital of Bolivia!!!

Plus exploring the city of Cochabamba and the realities of life in Sth America for many people.

But--it was time to move on, time to bid Linda and Jose´s family farewell and continue on our travels. Boo hoo!!! Thanks to them all for a wonderful week!!!

We stopped for a night in a town called Villa Tunari---a town on the outskirts of the jungle region---sounded like a cute place and we thought with nice jungle walks and rivers. But---it wasn´t so cute!!! Nice colourful jungle plants and insects and my favourite leaf-cutter ants--but that was it!!!

So---next day---on to our last port of call in Bolivia---Santa Cruz. Nothing too exciting about Santa Cruz---another big town. The most exciting thing was people-watching in the main plaza---with the "coffee men" wheeling around their trollies selling coffee---and the cute little indigenous kids dressed in traditional clothes, with their tape recorder, dancing and begging for money...in between watching the local playing chess!!! Sad---but cute!!!

The main reason we stopped here was to go on to the border with Brazil, where we were headed. As an Aussie, I needed a visa the enter Brazil--and there was a Brazilian embassy in Santa Cruz. As we arrived on the weekend, we had to wait until monday for the embassy to open. When we arrived there we were told "sorry, the computers are down and we can´t give you a visa---you will have to go back to Cochabamba"---12 hours away mind you!!! No apology, no help, no advice---just No!!! Service Sth American style!!!

I decided to phone the embassy in Cochabamba--and fortunately spoke to someone helpful who informed me that there was a Consulate in the small border town where I could organise my visa!!! So---fingers crossed---that´s what we decided to do. Arriving at the border (after yet another night in bus!!!) we went to the Consulate. As always, they act officious, make you wait and feel nervous---but I got my visa!!! Phew!!

So---adios to Bolivia---and Brazil---here we come!!!
So---until Brazil

Lots of Love
Llamas Bailando xxoo

PS: Just to finish with photos of this cute old man who was having his shoes polished in the plaza inSanta Cruz!!!

PPS: The next blog is called "Faces of Toro Toro". As always i chose too many photos for this blog...so made another blog with more colouful photos from our adventures in this town...hope you enjoy them!!!

Faces of Toro Toro

2010-01-06T11:55:00.000-08:00

Hope you enjoy these extra photos from our time in colourful Toro Toro...