Bolivia---part 1.

Welcome to Bolivia!!Bolivia will come to you in 3 parts. We spent about 6 weeks travelling this relatively small country...a country full of Andean colour and culture. Our adventures too many for one blog!!!

Enjoy...

Our first stop was Copacabana...no, not the bikini-clad Brazilian beach...but the cute town on the Bolivian side of lake Titicaca!!! A town full of hostels and hotels, shops selling all the colourful South American fabrics, cafes and little local eateries lining the lake-shore, where we enjoyed yummy fresh fish meals for about $3!!!

We enjoyed Copacabana for a few days...relaxing a bit, and a bit of hiking in the surrounding countryside, with beautiful views back over the lake-side town.

I was actually a bit sick durung our time there...sore throat, a bit of a fever. I went to the doctor...and as the swine flu epidemic had just reached Bolivia...we sat there looking at each other as the doctor went through his "swine flu symptoms" check list, then left the room to confer with his collegues. Fortunately for me..just a throat infection!!!

Next stop...the impressive capital of La Paz...set in the middle of the Andes, at a dizzying 3660m (the highest capital in the world). The approach in bus to the city is a spectacle...as you approach from above...and suddenly the town appears...the city huge and sprawling from down below and climbing up the sides of the valley, with snow-covered peaks as the backdrop.

The town centre is actually quite cute..for a large city!!! The cobble-stone streets climb up and down the hills...making it good for exercise...and at this altitude for shortness of breath!!! The streets are full of life and colour...street vendors selling anything from souvineers to drinks, food, fosslis (real or fake??)...to you name it...they sell it!!! Plus shop after shop selling all the beautiful colourful fabrics and weavings and ponchos and instruments and souvineers and clothes. Not to mention the street stalls and the local markets and flower stalls and even the Witches market, where they sell all sorts of oddities...herbs, magic potions, spells, coca leaves and even dried Llama foetuses!!

The locals dressed in their typical colouful clothes...the women with long coloured skirts, knitted jumpers, a colourful shawl and their hair in two long plaits with a bowler hat perched on their heads and the men in ponchos from the varying regions. This mixed with people dressed in their business suits snd teenagers dresses in the latest fashion. Contrasted with this, the people begging in the streets and children earning a living with their little shoe-polishing business. It makes me sad to see this poverty...children basically raised and taught that begging is the way to "earn"money, and the old women asking for money, looking longingly with their dark brown sad eyes that reach right in to your soul. But...it also makes me even more grateful for the life and opportunities that we have.

From La Paz we did a 1 day bike tour which takes you down what is called "The Worlds Most Dangerous Road"...and yep, fortunately for us...we survived!!! There was, however, numerous spot with crosses and flowers marking accident points!!! The road begins at 4700m and over 64kn winds down to 1100m...an a mostly gravel road that is 3m wide, with a drop to the valley below of up to 200m.But...a bit of adventure and adrenelin is good for the soul!!!

The bike ride ends in a gorgeous little town called Coroico...set at a lower altitude in a beautiful sub-tropical valley, and hence warmer. We decided to stay in Coroico a couple of days and enjoy a bit of sunshine, the local mountain culture, hiking in the surrounding countryside and the beautiful relaxing views over the surrounding mountains. The hostel where we stayed even had a swimming pool...what back-packers luxury!!!

Our next stop; Oruru...a bit further south and in the middle of nowhere...literally. The approach in bus was a bit scary...desert, dirty and a bit dodgy looking!!! We almost jumped on the next bus out...but the actual town itself was quite nice!!! We even found a yummy vegetarian restuarant (rare for Sth America...the meat eating capital of the world!!)...where we ate yummy home-cooked spaghetti for $3 and a huge portion of Apple Pie for $1!!! Yum!!! Jesus was a bit wary at first...he has turned back in to a real carnivore over here...but even he enjoyed this...we even went back our second night there!!!

From Oruru we wanted to take the train further south...one of the only train lines that existes in the country. But..in true Latin American style...they were on strike...so it was yet another bus trip. The overnight bus arrived on Uyuni at 3.30am!! But, fortunately they let us sleep on the bus until the sun came up. Just as well...as it was sooooo cold outside that there was ice on the inside of the bus windows in the morning!!! BRRRR!!!!

Uyuni. Well..this is a town really in the "middle of nothing to do" (to use a Jesus expression!!!) Freezing and with literally nothing to do in the town itself. So..why did we go there?! Uyuni was a thriving town in the days when Bolivia had an extensive train industry, as it was there that many of the trains were constructed. Now..they survive on tourism..yep, thats us!!!

So..what tourism here in the "middle of nothing to do?" Well, it is from Uyuni that you do a 3 day trip in 4-wheel-drive across the most incredible and amazingly beautiful landscape.

The first day, they take you to visit the train cemetary!!! Where, obviously, the remains of a lot of the now unused trains are left to rot in...yep, the middle of nothing to do!!!

From there you cross the Salt Flats of Uyuni. this is an incredible sight...it is the worlds largest salt flats...12,000 sq km´s...so when you are in the middle of it, all you see is a sea of pure white salt as far as the horizon. Also, as it was the dry season, the surface crust of the salt formed all these beautiful hexagonal patterns. We had fun taking silly photos...as the sea of white against the beautiful blue sky creates an optical illusion.

Our lunch stop was at "Fish Island"...named because from the distance it looks like a large fish!!! This island is in the middle of the salt flats, and is covered with cactus...up to 1000 years old. Amazing to walk around and enjoy the incredibly spectacular views. Lots of photos taken!!!

The salt flats were at 3653---.and from there, we entered the "altiplano desert"---desert at high altitude. Nice sunny days and clear blue skies---but icy winds and freezing at night (way below zero...brrr!!!). We slept with sleeping bags, 2 blankets and lots of clothes..including these "sexy" fleecy leggings that we bought for $1.50!!! But---they were toasty!!! The first night we slept in a little village even more in the "middle of nothing to do" than Uyuni. What do poeple do living in such freezing remote isolation!!! We did, however, manage to find the one cafe/bar/shop in town---where we were entertained by the 5 year old boy Armando---cute!!

Next morning after breaky, off we set across the desert. After about 1/2 an hour in to our day, the car skidded---one of the wheels had come off and kept rolling about 100m before coming to a stop!!! Our driver reckoned that someone had loosened the nuts...as the wheel just literally rolled off---who knows, anything is possible over here!!! Fortunately we found 2 of the nuts (he had no spares!!) and then took 1 nut from each of the other 3 wheels---leaving each with 5 nuts on each tyre---apparently thats ok!!! (hmmm...!!!) Also fortunately that we were in the middle of a flat area with soft ground---so the car didn´t roll!!

But---5 nuts on each tyre---and onwards we continued!!! The landscape was so remote and incredibly beautiful---with mountains around us of amazing reds and yellow and pink and white---different minerals forming patterns like they were painted. It was like being on another planet.

We also stopped at a couple of areas where there were these amazing rock formations, including the "Arbol de Piedra" (tree of stone)---check out the photo and you will see why!!! (hee hee) These formations are made by erosion and the strong winds that blow up here in the altiplano---and they make for great photos!!! We were both always the last back in the car after our exploring and photo-taking expeditions!!!

Being at such high altitude and cold, windy environment---there was minimal plant life---which kind of added to the remote beauty of the landscape. there were these cute green "clumpy" plants that added a bit more colour!!! These also contain borax---but now this area is a National Park, and any mining for commercial uses is fortunately illegal!!

Our next stop for the day was for lunch at a beautiful lake in the middle of this remoteness. Our guide had told us that if we were lucky ---we would see Flamingos---3 species live on the lakes in this region, but migrate for the winter. Well---we arrived at the lake, and guess what---a group of beautiful Flamingos bathing in the water. Just as I was taking (lots!!!) of photos---in the sky appeared more Flamingos. Wow, to see them in flight---another group was arriving. I had to stop taking photos to eat lunch---but went back for more afterwards. It was a nice, sunny afternoon, and the Flamingos were so cute---enjoying bathing and splashing around in the water. What a treat to see them!!

Our last stop for the day was at "Laguna Colorada" (Coloured Lake)---an amazing lake coloured red and white---white from Borax and red from an algae that grows in the water

Our refuge for the night was near this lake---at 4300m---in for a colder night (lucky for the sexy fleecy leggings!!!). On arrival, after a coffee to warm us up, Jesus and I went for a bit of a walk in search of Vicuñas. Vicuñas are part of the Llama family---actually, their wool is the finest and warmest---and they are really beautiful and graceful animals. Unlike Llamas, Vicuñas are wild animals, and in many parts if Sth America they are protected, and it is illegal to keep them as pets. We saw some in the distance---but it was getting too cold and too late to walk any further. But, arriving back at the refuge, we saw some Llamas that the locals had as pets. They are such beautiful animals---they have the cutest faces!!! Jesus went inside to get out of the cold---but I couldn´t let a Llama photo-opportunity pass by. My fingers nearly froze off chasing the "best" photo---bit I got some cute ones!!!

Day 3 we were awoken at 5.15 to visit some geysers. Our guide told us that it was probably about minus 13 degrees outside---and brrrrr---it felt like it!!! We even "crunched" across shallow, frozen rivers on the way!!! But the early, cold wake-up was worthwhile. To see the geysers steaming at 4900m as the sun was beginning to appearwas an awesome sight.

Our next stop was at some thermal waters where there was a pool for bathing. Many people were too scared to go in, as it was so cold outside. But--how could you not in this incredibly beautiful setting---the sun rising, a beautiful lake steaming in the morning air and surrounded by amazing mountains---ahhhhh!!! The water was so yummy---it was really an amazingly beautiful experience. Plus---when we got out of the water, the sun was warming up the morning air, and there was no breeze---it was actually really invigorating.

After a yummy breakfast , off we set in our 4-wheel drive, again through more beautiful scenery. One area was called "Dali Rocks" countryside. Dali visited this area in the 1950´s and was inspired by the landscape for some of his paintings. It is like sandy desert with rocks scattered sparsly and mountains as the backdrop. We passed this area in the early morning, and with the effect of the morning light, it had a really etherial feel. You could see how any artist would be inspired by this landscape.

Our next stop was at "Laguna Verde" (Green Lake). This is yet another incredibly beautiful place, with the lagoon a pretty green colour, with its backdrop an impressive volcano. The other side of this volcano is actually in Chile (just for a piece of useless information!!!). The lagoon was still half frozen!! We had fun throwing bits of ice on the top ---it was so thick it didn´t break. Plus, playing like kids, stepping on frozen puddles to see if they would crack!! Yep---it was pretty cold outside!!!

We stopped at the Chilean border---as many people use this "tour" to cross over in to Chile. The rest of us continued on back to Uyuni---a long, but beautiful drive. We stopped at the "Valley of Rocks"---another area scattered with impressive rock formations. Here we saw a Viscacho perched on the rock edge. They are rabbit-like animals with long tails, and they like to live in rock crevices. Yep---more photos!!!

Our lunch stop for the day was in another of the cute little villages in the middle of this remoteness. Beautiful views, more Llamas and a yummy home-cooked lunch---and more Llama photos!!! Can´t help myself!!!

So---hundreds of photos and an incredibly beautiful 3 days later---our 4-wheel drive adventure
came to an end.
I couldn´t fit any more photos on this page---so you will have to check out "Bolivia---part 1, more photos" to see more of our amazing adventure.
Until our next travel tale---enjoy the following "photo blog".
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo

Peru

So...post hiking adventures!!! We spent a few days in Huaraz relaxing, enjoying the nearby thermal baths and our favourite cafe with great coffee and Apple Pie...and waiting for Jesus´ foot to recover...he could hardly walk!!!

Our next stop was Lima...we aren´t usually big fans of the big cities...but we stayed for a few days at the house of a friend Sylvia. For those of you who remember my adventures in Israel (many years ago!!!)...Sylvia is a Peruvian lady who I befriended working on the archaelogical excavation there. It was nice to catch up with her. Its funny the paths life takes sometimes...when we first met i obviously spoke no Spanish (she speaks English)...now i am married to a South American and speak Spanish!!!...which was a surprise for her!!! So..we had our own "personal tour" of Lima.

Plus..we also caught up with two couples who we met earlier in Cajamarca. They invited us to a place where they go Tango dancing every Sunday...so yes, add tango dancing to our list of credits!!!

From Lima we headed straight down the coast to Arequipa...a pretty, colonial style town in the South of Peru. It is affectionaltely called "La Ciudad Blanco..The White City"...as the buildings are all built from a white stone that comes from the area...they are really beautiful.The whole coast line of Peru...from Ecuador in the North to Chile in the South is amazing...it is just one long stretch of desert....actually...it is not the most attractive!!

Arriving in Arequipa was interesting...passing through lots of shanty-like towns basically in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by sand dunes!!!---then all of a sudden arriving in this lovely city...like an Oasis. A popular "touristy"thing to do from Arequipa is hiking in the Colca Canyo...considered to be equal to the Grand Canyon in splendour. But...enough of hiking for us...for now, anyway!!!

We just enjoyed the town centre...plus observed a demonstration by some of the Indigenous people from a nearby village, where some of their fellow villagers had been killed defending their land against petrolium exploitation. Just to add a bit of spice and adventure to our travels!!!

From Arequipa...it was across to Puno on the shores of the spectacular Lake Titicaca. This is one of the worlds highest navigable lakes (at 3820m)...and borders Peru and Bolivia. The Lake and its Islands are steeped in history and culture and tradition...and it is very sacred for the Peruvian and Bolivian indigenous people. There are several inhabited islands which you can visit...some from Peru and some from Bolivia. We did a really fantastic 2 day trip from Puno...full of colour and South American culture.

The first day we visited the "Floating Islands" of the Uros poeple...an Indigenous group whose native language is Amayra. There is about 40 of these small islands, which are made entirely from the Tortora reed which grows in abundance in the lake...hence they are called the "floating islands". The base of the island is made from the reed interwoven, on top of which they place piles of longer reeds, which are replaced as they decompose. The houses are also made from the reed...as are their boats, called "Tortoras". There is a basic primary school on some of the islands...the kids have to go by boat...but for any

further education, they have to go to live in
Puno. The islands are small...but full of colour..with the beautiful weavings and their colourful clothes!! The people of these islands exists on fishing and of course now, tourism...selling their colourful weavings and artisaneas to us tourists!!! But...it was fun and interesting to see how these people live. They even sung us some of their local songs...in return we had to sing songs from our countries!!

The next island was called "Amantani"...this was to be our home for the night. This was a larger island on which about 4000 people live in 10 communities. They live a fairly basic existence; in mud brick houses, with minimal electricity and eat mainly what they grow...corn, beans,potato etc.We were met at the port by members of our "families" for the night...2 people each went to stay at the houses of different families, where they looked after us for the night and prepared us typical dishes...YUM!!! (even better for me, as they are mainly vegetarian!!!).In the afternoon we all met for "locals vs tourists" sporting matches. The men played soccer...which was very competative....the men take their soccer seriously!! The women...we played volleyball...they thrashed us!!! It was funny to see the women dressed in their typical clothes playing volleyball!! We then walked to a temple at the highest point of the island (4100m) to watch a beautiful sunset, followed by dinner at our "home".

Then..the party!!! Our families dressed us in typical dress...Jesus, a poncho and a hand-knitted and decorated hat...me, a white blouse with hand embroidered decoration, a big orange skirt, a colourful sash wrapped around my waist and a black shawl elaborately hand stitched at both ends. Actually we looked like idiots...all with our jeans or pants under the skirts to keep warm, and hiking boots!!!...but we had fun. The party was in the local hall, where some of the musicians from the local community provided entertainment

(pretty badly out of tune..but oh well!!...they were really enjoying themselves most importantly)...and we all danced. All in all...a fun and funny experience.

The next morning after breaky...farewell to Amantani and off to Taquille...a really beautiful and interesting island where the people live steeped in their traditional manner and customs..which in themselves are very different and really interesting.They have their own mayor...elected by the men, and it is his job to see that the "rules" and traditions of the island are upheld. The rules: no lying, no stealing, no laziness!! No lazyness hey...they actually have no horses or cows or donkeys to do manual labour...it is all done by hand, and any carrying is done on their backs!!!

They actually receive no help from the Peruvian government, but they do have UNESCO recognition for their incredibly beautiful textiles and weavings. The women do the weaving...the men knit!!! Actually...the men start to learn to knit from bout 5 years old. They walk around the island in their distinct outfit...black pants, a white shirt (which they make themselves...Jesus actually bought one, almost off the mans back!!), a black vest and a colourful woven sash (made by the women) around their waist and an incredibly beautiful knitted hat, which they knit themselves. They also carry and equally colourful knitted "chuspa"...a small bag in which they carry coca leaves...this they chew on, and also it is a custom when they meet someone, they exchange coca leaves as a greeting gesture. So...they walk around knitting!!! The better the knitter, the finer and more intricate and tighter the textile. It is said when a man wants to marry, he takes his knitting to the prospective father-in-law..if it hold water without leaking, it is good quality, he is a good craftsman...and he is good to marry!!! If not...go away and try again in 6 months...and practice your knitting!!! He can try up to 3 times...if he doesnt succeed after this...he cant marry the daughter!!! These knitted hats that they wear are beautiful...and there is 3 different designs. They are all the same pointed pixie-like shape...but with different patterns. The children´s one is brown at the top half, a colourful design on the bottom part with a knitted fringe around the edge. Single men; the top is white and the bottom beautifully decorated in red and white with a pom pom at the point. They wear it folded over in the middle with the pom pom hanging to the back...but when they are looking for a wife, they wear it folded over with the pom pom to the side!! Married men; their hat is extremely colourful with intricate design all over. They are all like incredibly beautiful works of art. As for the women. They wear a big coloured skirt, a white blouse, a beautiful woven sash around their waist and a black shawl with big pom poms on the ends. If they are single, the pom poms are colourful, but when they marry, they are usually one colour. The women actually weave the sashes that their prospective husband will wear!!!
As for marriage...it is considered a life long committment. Divorce is not allowed, and if your partner dies, out of respect, you cannot marry again. The men and women, therfore, are allowed to live together for up to 3 years to see if the partner is "right". But the men can only live in this "trial situation" with up to 3 girls...if they dont marry one of these girls they are considered a playboy. So...watch out boys!!!! Also, the ceremony itself is different..it is not like our "happy occasion". The couple go to the civil office, then to the church...but they musn´t smile or look happy!!! They then spend the next week in the kneeling position all day, and sleep in a bed with the god-parents....great hey!!! Meanwhile---people party around them...only after this time can they live as a married couple. If they ever fight or have marital problems...they need to remember the hardship of this ceremony...and resolve the problem!!!

So...that´s Taquille...a beautiful Island with amazing views over the spectacular Lake Titicaca...and over to Bolivia in the distance. But...not before i bought one of the beautiful knitted hats...which is photograhed to the left with its "knitter"!!! And...that was Peru. It was back to Puno for the night...and then off to our next stop; Bolivia!!

I actually hate border crossings...the officials working there are always scary and like to hassle and feel "important". Plus...even though they are"neighbouring countries"...they can also be a bit discriminatory towards Jesus. We have even learnt to give our passports together so they can see we are married...and it makes a little bit of a difference. How ridiculous!!! Leaving Peru...the guy seemed friendly...until he sat down behind the desk!!! He then looked at Jesus and said"do you have the paper i am going to ask you for?"!!! Jesus assumed he was referring to his "Andean Immigration card" which they gave him leaving Ecuador. "No...your police record check" said the guy!!! Which...by the way...they do not need this to travel...you wouldn´t get a passport if you had any problems with the law!!! What´s more...we were leaving the country...not entering!!! "Impossible"said Jesus...with which the guy looked at me and said "Is this your wife"...then told me i would be travelling on my own!!! As I said "i am not going anywhere"...the guy stamped our passports and handed them to us. We just looked at him..."You can go""" he said. What an a...!!! Hassling just to feel important.

Ahhh...the travellers life!!! At least it makes it a bit more spicy...South American style!!
So...until next travel tale...i leave you with this photo of "real" spices Sth American style (just cos i liked it!!!)

Lots of love

Llamas Bailando xxoo