Friday, April 10, 2009

Baños and the Jungle.






























Well---its been a while since the last blog---about time for our travel update. We finally managed to leave Jesus´family home---his mum cried---which made me cry too!!! But, we will visit there again before heading home---so i can get some more Ecuadorian cooking lessons!!!
We spent a couple of nights in Quito with our friend Karina---she is our dear friend who has the cafe in Baños (the infamous cafe where we met!!). Then---off to our beloved town of Baños!!! The final part of the bus trip winds through the mountains, following the river in the valley below. It was exciting to see this beautiful and familiar countryside again, with the crazy volcano Tunguhrahua looming in the background----yes, this volcano is active!!! We were both sitting on the edges of our seats awaiting with anticipation to finally arrive at the bus terminal. How exciting to be back in Baños after so much time!!! And even more exciting to arrive at the cafe and surprise our friends there!! It was a saturday evening---so needless to say perfect to go out and celebrate our arrival---bedtime---about 4am---but lots of fun had!!!




From the minute we arrived in Baños, Jesus began bumping in to familiar faces from over the years living here---actually we couldn´t walk more than a few steps without him stopping to talk to yet another friend!!
At the moment here in Ecuador they are in election campaign mode. Jesus reckons that in 4 years time he is going to come back and run for the equivalent of Mayor of Baños--as he seems to know at least half of the population of the town, and they are all happy to see his face here---so he reckons he would win the popularity vote!!! Even if he doesn´t know anything about politics!!!
Two weeks down the track he is still bumping in to people he hadn´t seen yet!! Today we were at the baths here---and he even bumped in to some people from Sydney that he met doing the film The Ruins last year!!! Can´t go anywhere hey!!!
For those of you who don´t know Baños---let me describe it to you!!! (plus--see the photo at the top!!).It is a small town set in the middle of lush green mountains---and the volcano looming above them all!! At on end is the river running in the canyon below---popular for rafting. At the other end is a large waterfall running down the face of the mountainside. Right at the base of the waterfall are the thermal baths---with soothing hot mineral water that flows direct from the mountains---hence the name Baños---which means "Baths". The area is popular for hiking, rafting, bike riding---and later soothing your muscles in the hot baths!!! Also popular for juice squeezed from the sugar cane. there is lots of stalls selling chopped up cane--the poeple love to chew on it and suck out the juice. They also drink it mixed with alcohol made from cane liquor!!! On the weekend the market here is also popular for the guinea-pig that they cook over a BBQ---a delicacy here in Sth America. (poor guinea pigs!!)
















So---what have we been doing here?! Hanging out with our friends, helping in the cafe---Jesus even has an official "Cafe Hood Baños" t-shirt!!! Me--i am helping in the kitchen---surprise surprise!!! Each morning we go for a hike in the mountain as exercise before breaky!!! One way up the mountain to the view where i took the photo above--the other morning walk is up 667 steps the other side of the town!!! Good for the legs!!!














The other day we went on a long bike ride---a popular ride from here in Baños, following "The route of the waterfalls". It basicall follows the main road that runs from here following the river and eventually goes to the jungle. Along the way there is lots of waterfalls, and eventually arrives at the next main town along, where you hike down to the biggest waterfall of them all called "The Devils Cauldron". It´s a pretty spectacular waterfall---they have even made a path that takes you behind the actual fall---and you get nice and wet!!!




Most people ride there, and hitch a ride back on the back of a ute. Us---well, we rode back to Baños as well---which involves uphill climbs that kill the leg muscles!!! Ahhh---thank goodness for the thermal baths!!!















I have also been enjoying taking lots of photos here---it is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. People from all over come here to enjoy the thermal waters, and drink the "sacred" water from the waterfall. So--i have been sneakily taking photos of the indiginous people who come dressed in their colourful traditional clothes!!!
After a week in Baños, we went for a jungle adventure!!! We got a bus overnight to a town called Coca, about 7 hours north of here---in the heart of Tarzan land!!! We were thinking of staying a night in Coca--but changed our mind on arrival. Unfortunately the main towns in this area are a bit depressingly ugly---as they mine oil here, and the towns are built to service to oil workers. Its very sad to see all the oil pipes along the roadsides and to know they are destroying much of the jungle and many of the rivers. But---many parts of the region remain untouched National Parks---and for this reason people go there for jungle adventures!! We didn´t do an organised tour. One of Jesus´many contacts in Baños told us of some cabins about 3 hours further on from Coca, owned by a man from the local community---set about 15minutes down the river in canoe from the village. We cooked for ourselves, went for walks in the jungle, saw lots of birds, tortoises sunning themselves, monkeys swinging in the trees, fished for pirhanna--and slept all alone in the jungle!!! Only way out---down the river!!!







During the day a guide came and took us for a walk to a humungous tree and showed us some of the jungle plants and their uses. There was a canoe for our use---so we paddled up and down the river and tried to catch fish for dinner!!! One of the days we were happily paddling and fishing and Jesus saw something swimming across the river about 100m from us. We soon realised it was a rather large Caimen (alligators that live in the rivers here!!) We paddled a bit closer--but not too close, as our paddling skills weren´t good enough for a quick escape if need be!!! That night the owner and the guide took us on a caimen spotting adventure---as they come out at night. You go in motorised canoe---and with torches you can spot them from ages away---their red

eyes poking out of the water. We had a really large one swimming right alongside the canoe---a bit of an adrenelin rush!!! They even tried to catch a small one for us to see---but it got away!!



















We spent 3 nights there---and got to eat fish fresh from the river to out frypan. Que rrrico!!! Yum!! Even ate pirahhna that we caught!!




When i did an organised trip to the jungle i remember that we swam and bathed right at the entrance to the cabins---so i was saying to Jesus (before the caimen spotting!!!) that surely we could swim in the river as relief from the jungle heat. Just as well we didn´t---i didn´t know that caimen could grow so big!!!













Next stop---another small jungle town called Misahaulli. This is a cute little town complete with a "beach" on the rivers edge---here it is safe to swim!!. A nice relief from the jungle heat. The town basically consists of a small centre square---where the monkeys roam---playing in the trees, playing with the people and stealing your food and drink bottles if you are not careful!!! They even know how to open the drink bottles. Very cute!!

















From here you can take canoe trips down the river--or just enjoy walking in the surrounding jungle. Ahh---a relaxing life!!! We spent 2 nights there--before heading back to Baños to spend Easter there.



For now---i leave you with a couple of the photos i have taken of the indigenous people here--i have taken millions---i love their colourful clothing!!!
Next stop and next blog---the coast!!
Until then---lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo


















































































































Thursday, February 26, 2009

La Llegada---the Arrival















After a fairly long journey---here we are in Jesus´ home land of Ecuador. We spent one night in Buenos Aires, as our connecting plane didn´t leave until the next morning. It had been pre-arranged that we would be put up in a hotel by the airline---but on arrival, we went to the LAN desk, and they didn´t seem to have any record of our reservation---fortunately after a bit of "discussion" it was sorted out!!! "Welcome to Sth America" said Jesus!!!
Buenos Aires---well, just another big city!!--and expensive. We wanted to go to "La Boca"---a popular street, with colourful buildings, cafes and tango dancers to entertain. It was a short bus trip there---but we didn´t have any small change--and we needed it for the bus. I asked a few people if they could change the note i had ($5!!!)---and noone could (or would!!!). So---we walked!!!
A nice 45 min walk through a nice seedy part of Buenos Aires. But ---we made it!!! Worthwhile? Yes & no!!! A pretty part of town, with coulorfully painted and decorated buildings---but set up to take advantage of tourists!!! After a stroll around--and several people trying to lure us in to their cafe---we decided a drink and a relax would be nice. Me ---a cappucinno, Jesus---a beer (what esle!!!). With tango dancing to entertain, it was nice to relax after our long walk. Until--the bill came!!!. Apart from the fact that the cappucinno alone cost about $7 (rip off number 1!!!)---on top of the goods---they charged $2 just to sit down, Plus 10%"tip"---on top of the dancers coming around and pretty much demanding that you put in something for the entertainment!!! So---about $20 for the experience. "Welcome to Sth America" again, said Jesus!!!


The next day we continued our trip to arrive in Ecuador. We arrived late at night, so spent the night in Quito. Jesus´parents live about 3 hrs further north, so we made the trip there the next morning. His family knew he was coming---but in true Jesus style---not exactly when. Even i was excited for Jesus as we approached the house!!! He never says much---but i knew he was excited. As we walked down the path to the house, backpacks and suitcases full of presents in tow, (see photo at the start---donkeys and all!!!) he called out his mums name. One of his nephews came running and screamed with excitement, running back inside to tell everyone. His mum gave him a BIG hug and had tears of joy in her eyes---even i was nearly crying!!!

His family were all gathering together ---as the next day (Valentines Day)---there was going to be a big party to celebrate his parents 50th wedding anniversary. With Jesus arriving and his brother Marco here visiting from Germany---all the kids (+ 21 grandkids!!) would all be together for the first time in ages. His mum was bursting with happiness---as you can imagine!!!
The menu for the next day was to be a traditional Ecuadorian feast---chicken soup (yes, with home grown chickens), mote---a dish prepared with corn (yum!!), potatoes (home grown!!), salad, aji (chilli sauce) and pig---also home grown!!!. So, that afternoon was the killing and preparation of the pig---great for a vegetarian hey!!!I didn´t see the actual pig being killed---but saw it being prepared---first burnt with a torch to remove the hair and dirt from its skin--thencleaned---and yes, hung up and cut up!!! I didn´t help with the cutting part---but took photos!!!

After that---time for the brothers to celebrate with a beer--or 2 or 3---!!! Me---i went ot bed!!!



The next morning we took Jesus´mum to the town nearby to buy a new outfit for the wedding. Lots of food preparation, lots of kids putting on their pretty dresses, and in the afternoon we all walked in to the town , where there was a ceremony in the church. Jesus´parents re-made their wedding vows after 50 years!!!
Next---the party!!!. Well---after a yummy meal, short speaches by all 10 kids and a few performances by the grandkids---let the party begin. In true latin American style---we danced and danced and danced and drank ( a drink prepared with alcohol and fruit juice, and left to ferment a bit more!!), and danced and drank and danced and danced---. I went to bed at about 2 or 3am--Jesus--well, not until after breakfast the next morning!!! I have to add that i didn´t drink too much!! Jesus---well thats another story!!














Well---more than a week has passed since the party. We are still here at Jesus´family home---he is enjoying spending time here with his parents and family, and I am enjoying getting to know them better.
Let me describe a bit more where they live. It is a large, fairly basic farm-like house I guess you could say. It is complete with a house for the pigs and the guinea-pigs (remember--they eat them here!!)--with chickens walking around the garden---nice fresh eggs for everyone!!! There is even "chicken trees"---where the chickens climb to sleep at night--very funny!!! It is situated on top of a hill overlooking the land they have below---with all sorts of and yummy things growing--corn, potatoes, avocadoes, cauliflower,cabbage, pumpkin, beans, herbs, blackberries, lemons---all they need to eat!!! It also overlooks the small town below and the larger town in the distance, plus the volcano Imbabura (inactive in case you were worried!!!)
just to the right and other mountains surrounding. A beautiful garden
full of flowers and trees (including gum trees so i don´t feel too homesick!!!), the garden decorated with sculptures in concrete and wood, masks and paintings made by Jesus and his
brothers Carlos and Marco---colouful hummingbirds that come to eat the nectar from the
flowers, fireflies flashing in the dark of the night--yes, its a pretty relaxing place to be!!!




























Relaxing---well almost--hee hee!!! What have we been doing? I helped Jesus build a house for the pet dog (he now has a house complete with terrace, also overlooking the view below!!), helped lug up 2 big bags of avocadoes that we picked from the trees below, helped him cut some branches form the trees and lugged them up to the house to use as fire-wood. Digging dirt to clear an area of the land below. A couple of days i helped one of his nieces paint and re-arrange her bedroom. Oh yes---and washing the clothes!!! You think that washing clothes involves putting them in the machine with
powder, and later in the dryer. "That´s not washing clothes" Jesus has always said!!! Here, you put them in a tub with water and powder to soak---and then piece by piece wash them by hand!!!
So---a holiday hey!!? I reckon Jesus bought me here to put me to work--hee hee. But---it´s good exercise!!!
Meanwhile Jesus has been working even harder. Fixing things around the place for his mum, digging steps in the path down to the land below to make the climb up/down easier. Cutting wood and lugging it up to the house for firewood (see photo as proof!!) Today he spent the whole day with his brother putting up a cable at the bottom of the property. The end of their land drops down to a canyon---where there is a place to swim filled ith water that flows direct from the mountains. They have installed a cable to do a flying fox from one corner to the other---but it took all day---as here it is done by hand---no machines to install or tighten the cable. To check how it worked---first they sent a sack of dirt across---then the guinea pig--one of his nieces. Pretty brave i reckon---you wouldn´t get me doing that!!
The other day we went an "animal market". Right near the house is a place where every wednesday and friday the country folk bring their pigs and cows and sheep (and 1 LLama!!!) to sell. Those wanting to buy come, check out the best of the animals, and off they go!!! It was a great place for photos!! In true Latin American style----Jesus´mum was telling us that some
people arrive really early, buy some animals--and then re-sell them to make a profit!!! Life is funny here!!!
This past weekend was Carnivale here---3 days of partying--and water bombs!!! The tradition here--apart from parades with kids dancing dressed in colourful traditional costumes---is to throw water bombs and spraying a shaving-cream-like foam (called Karaoke) at anyone passing by. One day we went to a small town about 45 mins from here---a town where the population is mainly negros...to see how they "Carnivaled"!!! The main attraction here---apart from great music and dancing and food---was fighting with water and karaoke!!! It was right near the river front--so people were not only throwing water bombs---but buckets of water!!! I got saoked within 10 minutes of arriving I think!! So---what else to do---but join in--so I bought some karaoke to spray at anyone who passed me by!!! Somehow Jesus and his mum managed to escape getting soaked--me twice!!!!
At this point--I must add a little piece of trivia. The Chinese have even found their way here to Ecuador with their $2 shops--except--here they are called .50c shops!!!
As for me---I have been enjoying helping his mum peel the fresh corn and beans to prepare the meals. Even the beans are amazing colours---green, pink, cerise, black, white, speckled---great for colourful photos---and yummy to eat!!! A couple of times we have also made tortillas---a bread-like dough flattened to pikelet-like size, and cooked on a large pan over an open fire---and eaten with guacamole---mmmm!!! I got up early today to have a tortilla-making lesson!!! Then--I learned how to make a traditional Ecuadorian soup--made with dumpling-like balls made with green bananas--yes, for those in the know--the bananas used to make pataconas!!!
So yes-- I have been enjoying a touch of the country life here. We will stay here now until next weekend when Jesus´ brother Marco returns to Germany. Then--it´s time to turn into tourists!!!
Until then---hope you enjoy my travel-tales and photos so far.
Until next time---lots of love to you all
xxoo LLamas Bailando (Karen and Jesus :o) )
PS: Me on the flying fox!!! Yes---I screamed!!!

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Preparando los Malletas

Jesus and Mick---an aussie BBQ!!

A multicultural farewell.

Here we are preparing for tomorrows BBQ and I am busy making Lemon slices & Banana cake.
A quick trip to the Queen Victoria Market resulted in the purchase of 75 sausages and 50 chicken drumettes for tomorrows consumption. Meanwhile Jesus was busy planting grass in the back yard, no not what your thinking, the REAL grass, for Inti to enjoy whilst we are away.
We are now equipped for travel with our official Aussie hats courtesy of Linda. Only 11 more sleeps and we're off.. .....off to Ecuador. YEAH....I'm a little sad to leave our Inti behind, but I'm sure the house sitter will give him lots of smooches and take good care of him..I will be sending Inti emails to check.. yes ..I am crazy..and I haven't even left the country yet. Cakes in the oven now,I can relax, make Linda a cuppa tea, and get on with a little gossip. 11 days to go and not a back pack in sight, or anything out yet to go.. we have tons of time left..!!!!