So---our adventures in Bolivia continue!!! From Potossi we went to Sucre--- the financial Capital of Bolivia---a large, but really pretty town. Sucre is also a Colonial style town (and also an obviously wealthy town!!!) with amazing beautiful and huge buildings. Walking around, we felt like ants next to some of these buildings!!!
But although, like Tarija, it was quite obvious that Sucre had a fairly wealthy population---it was not quite as "sterile" as Tarija, and there was not the "segregation" of Indigenous and non-indigenous---the central market was in the town centre and hence it had a mix of cultures, which made it colourful and interesting.
Many of the old doors had beautiful old-fashioned door-knobs---from fancy ones to really simple designs. We had fun with a little door-knob-photos project---here are just a couple of the photos!!!
One thing we really loved about Bolivia (one of the many things!!!) was the incredibly beautiful textiles that are produced here---and the majority still hand-woven, with each region having its own unique style. Unfortunately in Peru and Ecuador, the majority of the textiles are machine-produced (for tourism!!!)---and whilst they are still beautiful and colourful---those from Bolivia are more special. As they are hand-woven, each one is like a work of art---and can take from weeks to months to complete, depending on size.
In sucre, there was the most incredibly beautiful textile museum. This region is particularly well known for its hand-woven textiles, with each community having its own unique and distinct style; intricate designs in reds/oranges or blues/greens from the Tarabuco region, weavings
in 2 colours, red/black or black/white from the Potolo region and really beautiful colouful weavings done by the men. The museum was set up with different rooms displaying the cultures and weavings and history of the varying reagions.
There was also a couple of women (one from Tarabuco and one from Potolo) actually working on a weaving---which was amazing to watch. the designs are so intricate and its incredible to see how they are created with these fine threads row by row!!! I befriended the girl from Tarabuco, and asked if i could take her photo---she was fascinated to see her photos!!! (I made copies to take to het the next day!!!). She was only 18 years old---and in reality, the work she was creating was incredible for her age.
We spent a couple of nights in Sucre---and as we loved the weavings produced here, decided to visit some of the surrounding towns where they are produced.
The first town we visited was Tarabuco. This is a cute little town about 2 hours from Sucre, which is popular for its colourful local market every sunday. ( We love a local market---in case you hadn´t already guessed!!!). We decided to go on the Saturday and spend the night there---just to enjoy and experience the town a bit more. We finally found a little hostel to stay---basic, no shower---but a bed to sleep in!!!
We then spent the afternoon wandering around, weaving our way through the little cobblestone streets, seeing how the Tarabucans live, chatting with some local kids and convincing them to let us take their photos (they are actually fascinated to see themselves on the camera screen!!!), went to a mirador overlooking the town below and visited the old abandoned train station, which would have been a hive of activity in its day!!! It many deserted and delapidated rooms and windows made for some cute photos!!!
We then wandered with these little kids in the surrounding countryside, and eventually watched a beautiful sunset over the town.
Back in town---we ended up with the locals at a little street market eating the yummiest soup we have ever eaten---not sure what it was---but it was really yummy!!! Afterwards, we went looking for somewhere to have a drink, and as ther was no cafes, we ended up in a little local store sitting on stools and enjoying a drink with the locals---one old guy dressed in the typical clothes of Tarabuca; white pants, a black poncho (which they sometimes wear over the more traditional red/black/brown/orange striped poncho)and a black hard helmet-like hat. After that---time for bed!!! Not much else to do in these little towns!!!
The next day---market day---we just love these colourful local markets. The whole town was filled with a mix of locals selling anything from clothes to household goods to animals to food and traditional weavings and ponchos and artesanias for us tourists!!! Plus, the locals walking around in their traditional clothes---so colourful---and great for paparazying!!! We spent the day wandering around, enjoying the colour and culture of Tarabuco and eating a yummy home-cooked meal in the local market hall. There was soooo many people begging for us to buy from them---it was hard to decide. The locals have these dark brown, haunting eyes. One old lady begging for me to buy something from her---her eyes just looked straight in to my soul---it was hard to say no!!! As i said---we took lots (actually more than lots!!!) of photos---here i am sharing some of them with you before continuing with our Bolivia adventures. Enjoy...the colours, culture and faces of Tarabuco...
We even bought a couple of their weavings for our "textile collection"---and Jesus bought himself one of their traditional ponchos.
Our next adventure was a 2 day hike in the surrounds of Sucre---to visit some of the villages where the local weavings were done. As usual, the lady in the tour office "lied" to us---she told us we were a group of 3 (plus guide) and that we would walk to some rock-paintings, visit a village where the textiles were produced and also to see some fossilized dinosaur foot-prints. She basically had no idea---just wanted to sell a tour!!!
Our "group" was Jesus and me---and our guide Pablo!!! Which in the end wasn´t such a bad thing!!! We were taken by taxi to our starting point---where our hike began walking down an old Inca path---with amazing views of the valley below, gorgeous red-coloured rocks, the surrounding mountains and pretty wild-flowers.
I was a bit suspicious of our "plan"---as i thought that it didn´t include this Inca path. When Pablo said that we probably wouldn´t have time to get to the dinosaur foot-prints, i asked (kind of suspecting the answer!!!) if we were going to the rock-paintings. "No---they are over the other side of the mountains" he said. So---great---basically the hike was going to be nothing like what we were "sold"!!! Welcome to Latin America!!! He quickly added---realising that what we had been told was nothing like what we were doing---that if we walked quickly, we could get to the foot-prints. For us, that was more interesting to see than the rock-paintings---so "OK" we said---as the "group was just us, we could walk at the pace we wanted. So---off we marched!!!
The hike was beautiful---down a river valley, with incredible mineral colours/formations in the valley walls---like paintings---just beautiful. We got to stop here for a "quick" lunch break to rest our feet for a moment and to enjoy the pretty surroundings.
One area was full of sea shell fossils in the rocks, and then the hike took us down the valley, climbing up over the mountain pass to the other side with amazing mountain views. We hiked past beautiful waterfalls, past houses in small villages where we could see the weaving looms sitting outside in the back yards!!!
We got to stop and rest a few minutes at a "cave" called "Garganta del Diablo" (Devils Throat)---as it resembled a Devils Throat---well, a throat anyway!!! From inside there was great views over the valley and waterfall below. But---time to hike on---!!!
We finally arrived in our destination town of Maragua at about 4.00. Maragua is a small town set in the middle of a volcanic crater---with the surrounding mountains "striped" with curved line formations coloured with the minerals. Maragua has no road connections---to get to Sucre for any supplied needed the people need to walk 2-3 hours to get a truck or bus. The town also has no electricity---the cables had just been installed, but no connection had yet been made. Its amazing to imagine that in 2009 people are still living so basically!!!
We stopped at the house of some friends of Pablo---left our back-packs and he gave the lady some food to prepare our dinner---and told the lady we would be back at 7pm. And so---off we went again---our destination---the dinosaur foot-prints.
We hiked to the top of a rise ---leaving Maragua behind in the crater below---beautiful scenery---but no time for stopping!!! We were hiking a lot over this soft sandy ground, really volcanic in colour---purple, grey, white, red. I was hiking the whole time behind Pablo and Jesus, camera in hand, taking photos. They marched on ahead---meanwhile i was getting left behind as i stopped to play paparazzi---then i would have to run/walk quickly to catch up!!! But---good exercise and plus i have some great photos to show for it!!!
Up and down over the hills, through other little villages, and finally we arrived at the Dinosaur foot-prints---which were fossilised in the middle of nowhere, in a flat area of stone (which would obviously have been mud at the time). The prints were really clear and distinct---some large ones of a "Tiranosaurus Rex" and a long row of smaller ones from one side to the other of a "Long Tail"---you could just imagine these huge creatures running across this area millions of years ago. How amazing---to see for the first time ever real dinosaur footprints!!!
But--by this stage, it was starting to get dark---so time to head back to Maragua. Wow---how tiring!!! But we had to hurry on. On the way back, the weather changed---the wind really picked up and we were caught in this dust storm. The wind was a bit scary---it nearly blew us off our feet---i mean literallty!!! At one stage we had to squat down to not get blown over!!!. By this stage it was dark and we could hardly see where we were going, plus the rocks were slippery from the bit of rain. Just to add to the adventure!!! Also---after walking all day, we were all exhausted---our feet were just in automatic mode, as our bodies had had enough---all 3 of us!!!
It was 7.00 when we arrived back at the house---ahhh, to sit down!!! Pablo pulled out some snacks to munch on, as dinner wasn´t ready. The lady didn´t think we would be back so quickly---speedy gonzalesez!!!
We were sitting on a bed in a room---bed in one corner, a pile of corn drying in the other, a dried sheeps carcass hanging over our head and even the sheeps head in the corner!! Country life hey!!! We were supposed to be sleeping at the next little village along in a refuge, about another 20 minutes walk along. But the thought of walking more in the dark and blowy weather---actually, just the thought of even walking, was too much!!! We asked Pablo if it was possible to stay and sleep where we were---i think even he liked the idea!!! We were all stuffed!!! But---where to sleep---as this was the bedroom of someone from the house. But---they would be happy for the money they would get from us staying there---so thats where we stayed put---not a step further!!!
After a yummy warming soup and dinner---sleep!!! Jesus and i shared the small bed, which was as hard as a rock, and with no pillow. Pablo---well, a few blankets on top of the pile of corn, plus our sleeping bag made his bed for the night!!! Maybe even more comfy than ours!!!
The next day, a trip to the river to fill our water bottles (with water yummier than pre-bottled water!!!), bread and api ( a drink made with purple corn) for breaky---and off we set again!!!
After stopping at the house of one of the locals to see her weavings---it was a 2-3 hour hike to the village where we were to get the local bus back to Sucre. Easy Peasy!!!
But----we arrived at 12.00---and Pablo asked one of the locals re the bus. It had left at 11.30, and the second bus for the day was cancelled!!! Plus, no local cars to hitch a ride!!! Great!!!
So--what to do? Well---the only option---walk more!!! We had to walk another4 hours to the next town---had to cross a river (no bridge!!!) that was fairly wide and came up to our knees (not to mention the slippery rocks!!!--and get a lift in the back of a truck!!!
Day 1 we hiked about 25km and day 2 about 15-20km!!! Not bad for 2 days hiking hey!!!But---seriously---exhausted bodies and tired feet.
Day 1 we hiked about 25km and day 2 about 15-20km!!! Not bad for 2 days hiking hey!!!But---seriously---exhausted bodies and tired feet.
We arrived back in Sucre with literally just enought time to pick up our back-packs from the hotel where we had stayed, ask the guy if we could "borrow" his shower, and then off to the bus station for our over-night bus to Cochabamba. Boy were we happy to finally sit down in a "comfy" bus seat!!! Waiting for us in Cochabamba---our special friend Linda---yippeeeee!!!
So---until Cochabamba and our travel tales with Linda---
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo
