Sunday, July 4, 2010

Welcome to Argentina

Ahhh...welcome to Argentina. A huge and incredibly beautiful country, with such diversity in its beauty; from the snow-covered "Fin Del Mundo" (End of The World!!!"; the beautiful mountains and lakes of Bariloche; the coast with its whales and penguins; the specatcle of Iguazu falls; Salta and the north with its rainbow-coloured mountains, and the blending of Argentinian and Andean cultures.
Plus, the people...we loved them!!! They were so open and friendly and warm and welcoming, and just loved to chat...interested where we were from, our travels etc. We would be sitting in restaurants and end up chatting to the people at the next table!! One time i was waiting in the street while Jesus went to look for a hostel. An older gentleman walked towards me, we smiled at each other and exchanged "hola's" (also common over there walking down the street). He ended up stopping and asked where i was from...we ended up just chatting for about 5 minutes. This wouldnt happen everywhere...let alone even smile or say hola to a stranger in the streets!!!
Our first stop was Puerto Iguazu...a small town right on the borders of Brazil and Paraguay...nice and warm and welcoming and tourist freindly. We found a cute little self-contained cabin...surrounded by trees and birds singing for $10 a night!!! So...we stayed for a week!!!



































We had a tv, a stove so we could cook our own yummy home-cooked meals, enjoyed a traditional Argentinian parillada (BBQ) with another couple we met there...and the incredible Iguazu Falls waiting for us. Iguazu Falls...wow, wow and wow!!! Did i say Wow!!!











These amazing waterfalls are on the Iguazu river which borders Brazil and Argentina. It is a whole series of waterfalls down the river canyon walls...starting with the spectacular "Devil's Throat" waterfall, which is a huge impressive semi-circular waterfall in the middle of the river, dropping down about 30m to the river below. The water falls with such force that you could see the "cloud" of spray from way in the distance...and up closer at the look-out you even got wet. Some smart people had rain coats...us, well we just got wet!!!




















































































Actually, it was quite nice, as the weather was warm!! We had the most amazing weather..sunny, blue skies, to see the falls in all their glory. You can visit the falls from both the Argentinian and Brazilian sides of the river. On the Argentinian side we spent 2 days. On the first morning we even saw 2 toucans in the trees. Ahhh....nature in all its glory!! Plus there are these animals called Coatis...like the size of a small dog with big long fluffy tails..just roaming everywhere.










On the Argentinian side you get right up close to the falls...it is amazing how they have built a series of walkways literally over the river and along the ridges, so you can walk over the top of some of the smaller falls, watching the river rush over the edge from under your feet; plus you get right up close to some of the bigger falls. Some of the walkways are at the top of the ridge and others at the bottom, so you also see the waterfalls from different perspectives. It is an incredibly beautiful experience to see nature in all its beauty and all its power.
































































































On the second day we went for a small walk in the surrounding national park to a waterfall where you could bathe in the pool at its base. Walking we were on the lookout for anteaters and jaguars, as they live in this area. (Apparently a rangers son was killed by a jaguar in 1997!!).We did see an anteater, but no jaguars!!! (maybe just as well!!!!).













In the afternoon we did a boat trip that actually takes you under the main area of the waterfall...12 minutes of pure adrenelin!!! The boat literally goes in to the 2 sides of the falls, in the rapids/waves caused by the pressure of the water falling...and under the spray. The spray was so powerfull that we almost couldnt breathe under its pressure.!! We were the only ones not to take raincoats for at least some protection...so we got saturated...completely!! But..we had fun!!!






















































The next day we visited the falls from the Brazilian side, where you see then from the other side of the river. There is a main walkway that follows the river valley, giving a complete overview of the falls that you walk over the top of in Argentina. Here are photos of the falls from the Brazilian side:


































































































The following photos are of the other beauties of nature that we encountered at Igauzu Falls...butterflies, birds, lizards,plants and these grubs up the trunk of a tree (pretty...but yucky!!!!)




































































































































































And...just a few more of our Iguazu snap-shots!!!































































































Iguazu Falls...all-in-all an amazingly spectacular experience!!! So..what else did we do in our week there!!
We visited a place called "The Three Frontiers"...a point at the junction of the River Iguazu and the River Paraguay where the three countries Argentina, Brazil and Paraugual meet. On each of the 3 corners there is a marker with the countries flag. From there we watched a beautiful sunset.
























We also very briefly visited Paraguay!! There is a town just over the border from Brazil which is a black-market for buying electronic goods (and anything else they can sell without paying taxes!!). We were there on a sunday, when many places are closed, and got hassled to buy stuff. Apparently during the week it is quite an experience to go there, with literally thousands of people filling the streets and shops to buy their household goods cheaper. It is a fairly seedy area, with fairly seedy looking characters trying to con you in to buying stuff...so probably even more scary with so many people. We wanted to get our passports stamped with a paraguayan stamp..but unfortunately we didnt. As this is a "friendly border", people literally just come across from Brazil to shop and return across the border, so there are no formal border crossings. Oh well...Jesus did drink a beer to get a Paraguayan label to add to his collection!! Oh yeh...and as happened a few times in our travels, Jesus got asked if he wanted to buy some "maria!!!"..it was that or if he had "anything" to sell!!! Hmmm...must be the long hair!!!
The other days we just relaxed, enjoyed the cute little town and our cute little cabin and a bottlw or two of Argentian wine!! We did visit "The House of Bottles".













This was built by a man who couldn't afford to buy his daughter a "play-house"...so invented a manner to construct one using plastic bottles. Even the chairs and bed were made from bottles!!! He cut the bottles in half, and put the top end upside down inside the bottom end to make the "bricks". These then fit in to each other to construct the walls. He discovered that the air inside the bottles actually also created a natural insulator, and is now even constructing his own house using the same technique.




















Over time he even extended this to other uses for bottles and other recycled materials. Steps made from bottles filled with sand; cutting bottles in to long plastic strips, and weaving them together to make curtains and even plastic carry baskets; crotcheting aluminium can tops together to make hand-bags; toys for kids, ie: a car, with the bottle as the body and the bottle-tops as the wheels; a solar panel made with the plastic bottles painted black to absorb the heat.
























This man now travels around teaching his technique...with the idea to help people know how they can re-cycle, or use recycled materials if they cant afford anything else; or as he has done, using re-cycled materials to make things and sell them to make money.
We also visited ...can't remember its name...but its a "building" made out of really old, recycled trees...it's massive.




































































So...where to next. We actually had no plans...no real idea!!! We originally thought to just travel across the Northern part of Argentina and the Northern part of Chile and back up towards Ecuador. But, one morning over breaky, studying the map of Argentina...a town in the mountains of Argentina called "Bariloche" was calling our attention!! I asked in the travel agency "How far is it to Bariloche"?. Well...18 hours to Buenos Aires and another 20 to Bariloche...ok lets go!!!
I must add, the buses in Argentina were the best. Comfy, lots of leg room, on some they even gave you a pillow and a blanket!!! Plus, food and drink, like on an aeroplane. Pure luxury after some of our bus trips!!! So, an overnight bus to BA, then killed a few hours, stretched our legs on a windy freezing day there, and jumped on the next bus to Bariloche. Another sleep on a bus, we woke to a beautiful day...and then amazing snow-cappped mountains came in to view and turquiose-coloured rivers. Ahhhh...the mountains again. These views continued until Bariloche came in to view.










Bariloche is part of Patagonia, located in the Lakes District of Argentina. It is a "Swiss-like" town both in feel and location. It is set on an impressively beautiful lake and is surrounded by mountians, all still covered with snow.. The surrounding countryside is covered in Pine Trees, hence lots of wooden chalet-like buildings. Plus, it is famous for its home-made chocolates...YUM!!! Lots of amazing, yummy chocolate shops everywhere. We arrived to blue skies, and the lake and mountains glistening in the sunlight. Found a cute little home-stay in the heart of "down-town", opposite the lake...perfect!!! Unfortunately the next day we awoke to grey skies and rain forecast. But, after a yummy coffe in one of the many coffee shops in town...we headed off to "Cerro Compana"...a small mountain look-out about 17km from town. When we stepped off the bus, Jesus bumped in to a Swiss girl, Marcella, who he knew when she lived in Banos (Ecuador) for few years!!! What a small world!!! The last time they "bumped" in to each other was at the train station in Zurich when Jesus was on his way to visit his brother in Germany!!! Anyway, at the same time the heavens opened...so the 3 of us jumped on the next bus in to town...and what better way to spend a wintery afternoon...in a cafe enjoying a yummy warming hot chocolate!!. We stayed there chatting until they nearly kicked us out!!! Back to our little house, and a yummy home-cooked pasta for dinner. Next day, a bit the same story.
"Take 2" to visit "Cerro Campana"...but again the heavens opened. It rained on and off, so we didnt go up, but walked along the main road, enjoying the lake views and a few little shops along the way.Until it really started raining..so back to town, and yep...another hot chocolate. Another yummy home-cooked meal, and Jesus even got to watch Ecuador's World-Cup qualifying match on tv!!!






























Day 3, and "take 3". Yippee...we finally got to go up "Cerro Campana". There was a chair lift to the top, but we decided to walk and enjoy the pine forest and patches of snow.














From the top, amazing 360 degree views over the lakes and mountains awaited us.





























































We ventured further along the picturesque road to where there is a huge Swiss-like hotel surrounded by lake and mountain views. But...as backpackers...we just got to enjoy this from the outside!!!



But after a invigorating day, back in town...yep, another hot chocky!!! The next morning we awoke to a beautiful clear morning. But, the seed had already been planted in our heads to go even further south. To the Southern-most town in the world, at the Southern-most point in Argentina...Ushuaia. Our bus didn't leave until later in the day, so we got to enjoy the clear weather until then. We took a different chair-lift up a higher mountain covered in snow, with people skiing and tobogganing...and enjoyed even more incredible views.






































































































































But, after a bit of snow-play and checking out the sights in the museum up there, time to head back down the mountain and Southward bound to "The End of the World".
All-in all, a 36 hour journey!!! But, oh well...we were becoming seasoned bus-travellers...and got to pass through some other cute little towns.
So...Ushuahia here we come...but i save those adventures for our next blog!!! Until then, hope you have enjoyed Argentina so far!!!
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo