We kind of stumbled" across Huaraz. I read about it in our Lonely Planet travel "bible"---so we thought why not check it out---as most of you know we like a bit of trekking and adventure!! Well---what a surprise---we have had the most incredible time here---hence it deserves a blog of its own!!
The town itself is surrounded by snow-capped mountains---even our hostel room had amazing mountain views...the photo at the left is the view from our room...not bad hey!!!
We arrived early one morning---and by the afternoon found ouselves booked in for a 3 night, 4 day trek in the Huascaran National Park. Our first taste of the mountains.
So---at 6 o´clock the next morning off we set. After a 3 hourbus ride to our "starting point", we met up with Pablo and our 5 donkeys who were to be our "porters" for the trip--they carried all the food and tents and stuff. So-
--ready---off we set down the mountain valley. We were hiking in lush green mountain countryside with all these gorgeous, colourful wildflowers (see some of the photos below!!!) following a river which had beautiful, crystal clear, turquoise coloured water---pure water flowing direct from the snowy mountains---the back drop---these amazingly beautiful, rugged (and very, very tall!!!) snow-capped mountains---ahhh---pure bliss!!!!
These mountains were our home for the next 4 days!!! They were also the back-drop for our campsites---what a relaxing way to go to sleep each night!! Our camp consisted of our tents, a "kitchen" tent and a "dining" tent---where we hung out at night chatting and telling stories!! One of our guides was also a chef---so we were treated to a yummy warming soup and a main course each night---pretty snazzy for camping!! Jesus befriended the guides pretty quickly---and hung out in the kitchen tent!! I wonder why!!
The first morning Jesus and I woke before the sun rose, and were treated to seeing the mountains glow in the moonlight, and gradually glisten as the sun rose from behind. We even took a quick (very quick!!!) morning bath in the river---remember, the water literally came directly from the melting snow---so was pretty freezing--but invigorating!!! Next---we were treated to
pancakes for breakfast---YUM!!!---energy food for the days hiking ahead.
Day 2 of the hike was a longer days hike and took us higher up in the mountains--it was amazing to see the countryside change as we climbed to higher altitude--and we were lucky to have nice clear weather to treat us to more spectacular views. The vegetation became more sparse---but we were even closer to the mountains. When we arrived at our camp for the night, we were just awe struck---we were pretty much surounded by 360 degrees of majestic snow-capped mountains---the scenery just kept getting better!!! It was still sunny when we arrived, so we all had a dip in the icy river--and warmed up in the afternoon sun, while enjoying a nice warming cup of coca tea, with some popcorn!!!---and what better backdrop could we ask for!!? (They drink coca tea and chew coca leaves here to help against altitude sickness---well, thats what they say anyway!!!). This night we were camping at about 4250m--so it was much chillier---the outside of our tent was covered in ice the next morning!!!---brrrr---no morning dip for us!!
We were woken at 5.45 to get an early start to the days hike---but again got to enjoy the mountains light up as the sun rose. As the sun warmed us up--helped by a yummy hot coffee!!!---we were again treated to blue skies and beautiful views.
Today our hike started with a climb to the pass over the mountain range---our highest point at 4750m. As we began the climb, an incredible turquiose/blue lake came in to view in the valley below. We were so lucky to have clear weather to give us spectacular views over the mountain range---it was like having a birdseye view of where we had come from and where we were headed. It was our first time ever to be at such an altitude, and to have such incredible views---what a special treat!!
The rest of this hike took us back down to where vegetation could grow!!---mind you we were still at over 3500m!!! The last day of the hike even took us through a lots of little villages dotted along the mountain valley. All of the kids came running after us asking if we had any lollies or biscuits to give them---or outright asking for a "propina"--or tip!!! We did get some cute photos though--they loved to pose for photos and were delighted to see themselves on the camera screen!!! Even one old lady got in on the photo shoot...she was fascinated to see herself on thecamera screen!!!
It was sad for our 4 days to come to an end--we had a really nice group of people and had an amazing and fun time together.
So much so--that on the way back to Huaraz---a couple of Brazilian guys managed to talk us in to joining them on the next trek they were doing---a 10 day trek!!! Actually---it didn´t take much convincing!! This 10 day trek was in the Huayhuash mountain range---it was rated by the National Geographic as the second most beautiful hike in the world, after a hike in NZ!! So---after a couple of days rest in Huaraz---and a visit to some thermal baths to relax our muscles---off we set again. 10 days of mountain climbing, sleeping in a tent, being fed yummy food by our personal chef Juliot (yes--Jesus also befriended him early on) and pushing ourselves to the limit!!
Before i continue with the next hiking adventure..i will share with you some more photos from this first hike...enjoy these..then..read on...!!!!
Well---if we thought our first trek was amazing---Huayhuash was the icing on the cake. 10 days of the most incredible, breathtaking, spectacular views---that no words can do it justice---I will try though!! You will have to enjoy the few photos i can manage to put with this story!!
It was pretty hard going--we walked 150km (!!), between 6-8 hours of hiking every day and hiked over a high mountain pass every day!! Plus we were at an altitude of over 4000m---so physical exercise at this level is even harder as the air gets thinner and thinner. But---the rewards were amazing!! My motto was---you have to "suffer" a bit to enjoy the rewards!! And what rewads were we treated to---more, more and even more incredible mountain views, glaciers, more amazing glistening turquiose lakes---even saw avalanches and condors flying over-head!!! It was hard to be believe that nature could be so incredibly beautiful!!
As we were at such high altitude the countryside was quite barren, but that made the immense mountains even more majestic and spectacular. At times the landscape was like being on another planet. One day our climb took us up the mountainside--our final clamber to the pass was up a 60 degree rock face (yes---you can add rock-climbing to my skills!!---a bit of an adrenelin rush i might add!!). At the top of this climb we entered "mars territory"---it was really like being on another planet. The ground was covered with black and red granite---and sea-shell fossils everywhere---we were at 4850m, but millions of years ago this was in the sea. 
Pretty amazing!!Every day on this hike had its challenges---and of course the rewards!!!. Each day had a climb to the mountain pass of anywhere between 4700-5200m!!--and even then our guide often took us up even further to a "lookout" which treated us to even closer mountain views!! And every climb was different---some longer, some steeper, some muddy, one covered with snow!! One of the first passes we crossed was one of the most difficult---our guide had warned us that it was a tough climb--and boy was he right!!!---it was a steep, looong climb to the top.
We started the day with a fairly relaxed hike to the base of the mountain, where we stayed and enjoyed the view--and waited hopefully to see an avalanche on the mountain face in front of us!! As the morning sun heated up the snow---hearing and seeing avalanches became a highlight of our day!!
But--the "relaxed" hike ended there!! The first part of the climb wasn´t too hard---and we were rewarded with views over the mountains and the lake and the camping area we left behind. However---it seemed to go forever--until finally we arrived at a flat area---"are we there yet"--i said to Jesus!! I was actually wishfully thinking---VERY wishful!!--as we were still literally in the middle of the mountains!! When we got to the other side of this area we could see that the path went up, up and more up, winding up the mountain side---the mountain pass was still a distant "v" in the mountain top!! Hiking like this everyone had their own pace---some faster than others!!---my pace;plod, plod, plod---Jesus went on ahead!!! (i must say though--i wasn´t the slowest!!!)But--this climb was demanding---i did ask myself if i was actually having fun----at the time it seemed not!!! It was a bit of a mind-over-matter moment---i had to make myself keep going. As the altitude was getting higher and higher, the air was colder and thinner---at one point i was feeling really short of breath (and a bit scared!!)--but "keep going" i told myself---our guide told us at the start of the hike that many problems were psychological---so i reminded myself of that!!! Gee---i really am spilling all the beans now aren´t i!!!
Anyway---as i nearly arrived at the top, Jesus and a couple of the guys who were already there were chearing me on---i was exhausted, puffing and panting and said "I am going to cry"---and i did!!! A mix of laugh and cry and puff and pant---exhaustion and exhileration!!! The others all just laughed!! My first time at 4800m!! The photos to the left prove it!!!!The reward---amazing views and then on the distant mountain in front of us---BOOM---a big avalanche---even amanged to video it!!!
Every night we had a different mountain or lagoon "backdrop" to our camp-site, every day more spectacular views---it was hard to believe that day after day we were rewarded with yet more breath-taking scenery.We also had an amazing guide Luca. Instead of taking us on the "normal" trekking route he kept offering us alternatives---harder alternatives that required more climbing---but instead of seeing the mountains from below or from a distance---we were right up close---with the snow and glaciers at eye level, and spectacular 360 degree views of the mountains all around and the turquiose lakes in the valleys below.
Plus..he also offered us "optional-extra" activites..like going that bit further to the "lake over there" at the base of that mountain "over there"..which sometimes added an extra hour or two to our day!! One time a few of us did this...we ended up at this "hidden" lake at the base of the mountain...imagine...sunny skies, mountain back-drop, blue water.....no bathers...but who cares!!!! One of these "extra" excursions took Jesus and I to a stunning place where the true story--made in to the film and book called "Touching the Void" actually happened. (see the picture below left).
What other adventures did Huayhaush offer us!!? Well---we got to swim in some of the amazingturquise lagoons right at the base of impressive snow covered mountains; one of the mountain passes that we climbed was covered in snow---so add "snow-climbing" to our resume!!; after freezing nights, waking up to ice-covered tents and frozen grass and water all around (brrrr!!); we visited one of the small villages of the mountains---it was amazing to see how people live in such remote isolation (people also live dotted over the countryside, not even in a village!!!)--the only way in or out of this region is by foot or horse or donkey...and a few days walk
at that!!!;we were treated to yummy food cooked by our personal chef; plus---the views---did i mention the breath-taking views---yes we took lots of photos!!!
There was also a lot of beautiful flowers and cactus...that grow at these high altitudes. many of them were frozen in the brisk morning air...brrr!!!
Our last day, we had a more "relaxed" day---we could chose what we wanted to do---climb another mountain---or---well, the carnivores of the group decided to buy a sheep from the locals (yes, it was alive at that stage!!!)---and it was "prepared in a traditional manner---marinated in local herbs (yes--after it had been killed and chopped up!!) and cooked over hot coals in the ground---i decided to go for a nice "easy" hike to the nearby lagoon instead of see the poor sheep meet its fate!! But---they all enjoyed the feast--me---well, the locally grown sweet potatoes and potatoes cooked in the same "oven" were yummy!!
At this last camp--we had to cross the river to get to our camping spot---we had to take off our shoes as the stones were covered with water--i still slipped, so Jesus came to help me---and fell in up to his waist (ooops!!)--but also hurt his foot---double ooops!!! Our last 4 hour hike out of the mountains he had to go on horse back---he had never ridden a horse before, let alone climbing up and down the mountain!!!---and ended up with not only a sore foot!!! So---we spent a few days relaxing and recovering in Huaraz---hanging out at out favourite cafe that had the best coffee---and apple-pie!!! YUM!!!Until our next adventures----enjoy some photos!
Lots of love
Llamas Bailando xxoo :o)
PS: This first photo is Jesus being...well, just Jesus...and playing with some cow bones that he found lying around...one time he did this...the cows came chasing after us...no joking!!! We had to get to the other side of a river so they would stop!!!
